Tips For Selecting The Best Plant Nurseries

New and experienced gardeners rely upon a well-run and informative nursery for all their plant and landscaping needs. Picking a plant nursery that is reputable and has healthy zone appropriate plants can be the key to a successful gardening project. Online plant nurseries can be part of the process and cementing a relationship with bonafide electronic sources can be difficult since the product isn’t right before you. For both online and home-based businesses, it is crucial to know how to choose a reputable nursery for the best selection, knowledge and pricing.

How to Choose a Reputable Nursery

Those first trips as a novice gardener can be overwhelming and the guidance and suggestions of a professional nursery team can make all the difference in the world between a healthy garden and one planned to fail. Choosing the best plant nurseries depends upon more than simply healthy looking plants. Staff should have excellent customer service skills, garden knowledge, reliable information about gardening in your zone, and the availability to help you choose the right plants and products for the way you garden.

One of the first steps in picking a plant nursery is to check out their products. This means investigating the health of the plants but also what other items you might need in the garden. Are they good quality, durable, readily available consistently? Is staff knowledgeable and willing to help even if it means directing you to a competitor who has a better line of products in a specific range?

The hallmark of any good business is good customer service and the ability to fully satisfy customer needs. Think of your personal nursery as a font of information and a tool to use in your gardening adventures. In combination with your local Extension office ^[1], your nursery can help you transform dreams into realities and be part of the maintenance and future planning processes.

Gathering Plant Nursery Information

As you assess your nursery options, it is important to gather any pertinent plant nursery information. This includes looking into their Better Business Bureau ^[2] rating, talking to other plant enthusiasts about their opinion of the business and watching sale sheets when they come out to get the best buys on the products that you need.

A personal visit to the location will further determine which are the best plant nurseries for you. This is when you get to experience the service level but also touch and feel all the specimens to determine fitness, adaptability and selection.

Don’t be afraid to touch and investigate plant specimens to ensure that there are no disease, pest issues, stress, or weeds. Remember, what you bring home can infect your garden and a reputable nursery will only carry healthy plants with a good chance at thriving in your garden and no chance of starting an infestation or rampant disease.

Online Plant Nurseries

Who can resist those plant catalogues that come in winter? They bear the promises of spring and summer, warm weather, sun and flowering beauty in the landscape. However, be wary of wild sales and promises from electronic retailers. There are good deals to be had but not every online source is dependable. Again, ask around to plant friends to find their opinions on the business but also do some homework.

Some of the most trustworthy online nurseries will offer plants suitable for your zone with excellent shipping practices, including the timing of delivery. They will know what plants cannot be delivered to your region and should have an online chat available to help inform you of the best options for your landscape.

There are many consumer websites which can help rate the best nurseries for you. Angie’s List ^[3],Garden Watchdog ^[4] are excellent resources to help you determine which nursery can meet your needs.

Source: http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/plant-nursery-information.htm

The Top 3 Rules For Tree Care

1. Water
2. Water
3. Water

By Suzanne DeJohn

The Snip-n-Drip Soaker System is an easy and effective way to water trees.

WHEN dry weather continues for an extended period, landscape trees depend on homeowners for water. According to the Texas Forestry Service, more than 5 million urban and landscape trees in Texas alone have been lost due to drought, so it's important to take care of surviving trees and nurture replacement trees with proper watering.

The amount of water a tree needs depends on many factors, including the age and species of the tree, the time of year, weather and soil type. As a rule, newly planted and young trees require more frequent watering than older, well-established trees. But during extended periods of drought, all trees benefit from supplemental watering.

According to Skip Richter, County Agent with the Texas AgriLife Extension Service in Houston, during periods of drought, "the goal is to provide just enough supplemental irrigation to maximize growth on young trees and to keep older, established trees healthy. We don't want to water so much or so often that we encourage more canopy growth than the soil, climate and tree species can support during normal rainfall years. Excessive watering can make a tree dependent on irrigation rather than resilient enough to survive on what nature normally provides."

Related Articles

• Drought-Tolerant Perennials
• Watering Myths
• Gardening Techniques for Dry Weather
• When to Water

Watering Newly Planted Trees

For the first several months after planting, most of the tree's roots are still within the original root ball.

For the first several months after planting, most of a tree's roots are still within the original root ball, with some roots beginning to grow beyond this area. The root ball and the surrounding soil should be kept evenly moist to encourage healthy root growth. After a few months, expand the watering zone to cover the entire area under the canopy. It can take two or more growing seasons for a tree to become established — for roots to venture into the soil well beyond the planting hole. It's vital to provide supplemental moisture in those early years, if nature doesn't provide regular soaking rains. During hot, dry weather, new trees may require water as often as three times per week to ensure that the root ball doesn't dry out.

Watering Established Trees

Once a tree is established, apply water in a wide band around the outer reaches of the tree's canopy, called the dripline.

It's a common misconception that a tree's roots are a mirror image of the aboveground canopy. In reality, an established tree's roots usually extend well beyond the edge of the canopy, or drip line. Although some anchor roots may reach deep into the soil, most tree roots are concentrated in the upper 12" to 18" of soil. When watering established trees, provide a deep, soaking irrigation to the entire area beneath the tree canopy and extending several feet beyond the drip line. Ideally, you should moisten the soil to a depth of 10" each time you water. To prevent rot, don't apply water to the area directly around the trunk.

Know When to Water

The easiest way to check soil moisture is to take a long (8"-plus) screwdriver and poke it into the soil. It will pass easily into moist soil, but be difficult to push into dry soil. If you can't poke it in at least 6", it's time to water. This technique works best in clay and loam soils.

How to Apply Water

Overhead sprinklers are the easiest way to cover large expanses, but they're inefficient, losing up to half the water to evaporation. Trees are better served by watering methods that apply water slowly, right at soil level. It may take several hours to properly water a single mature tree.

A soaker hose, such as the one in our Snip-n-Drip Soaker System, applies water slowly so it soaks in rather than running off.

Soaker hoses are an efficient way to water trees because they're porous and release water slowly. Encircle a tree with a spiral of soaker hose and run it for an hour or more — as long as it takes for water to penetrate 6" or 8", using the screwdriver test.

A Pressure Regulator improves the efficiency and prolongs the life of soaker hoses.

Bubblers are hose-end devices that reduce the velocity of the water, so it soaks in rather than running off. Because it waters one spot at a time, you'll need to move the bubbler around.

Our Garden and Landscape Sprinkler System has ground-level sprinklers suitable for watering trees.

If possible, avoid watering during the hottest part of the day — 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. — to conserve water.

To water two or more small trees at once, use the 4-Port Deluxe Rain Barrel as a reservoir. Fill it with water, and run a separate hose to each tree.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much water does my tree need?
As a general rule of thumb, apply an inch of sprinkler irrigation or enough water to moisten the soil to a depth of 10" or more for mature trees. A common mistake is to apply frequent shallow waterings that don't soak deeply into the soil.

My irrigation system waters my lawn regularly. Isn't that enough for my trees?
Probably not. Most irrigation systems are programmed to apply frequent, shallow waterings. Trees do better with less frequent but deeper soakings — a heavy soaking once a week is much better than a shallow watering every few days. That's because shallow waterings encourage tree roots to remain near the soil surface where they're prone to drying out. Watering deeply, on the other hand, encourages deep, drought-tolerant roots.

Should I mulch under my trees?
Yes. Grass growing under trees will intercept much of the water you apply, keeping it from reaching plant roots. It's best to keep a large (3' plus), turf-free circle around the trunk. A 2" to 3" layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark or pine straw, helps conserve moisture and keeps weeds at bay. To prevent rot, don't pile mulch against the trunk.

Should I fertilize during a drought?
As a rule, drought-stressed trees should not be fertilized. When water supplies are limited, trees naturally slow their growth. Applying fertilizer can encourage a flush of growth that causes the tree to require more water than is available. And the salts in many fertilizers can harm drought-stressed roots.

Is the technique the same for those of us living in desert climates?
According to Phoenix-based author Cathy Cromell, in desert conditions irrigation should soak the soil at least 3' deep. "We have such salty water and salty soil; deep watering helps by leaching salts past the root zone. Salt burn is a very common here, especially with non-native trees." Deep irrigation also encourages roots to grow deeply, as opposed to frequent light watering which leads to shallow roots that are more vulnerable to drying out.

Take Steps to Minimize Tree Stress During Drought

• Avoid digging under and around trees so you don't disturb the roots
• Don't do any heavy pruning. However, it's OK to remove broken, dead, insect-infested or diseased branches.
• Keep an eye out for insect pests and disease, because drought-stressed trees are more vulnerable to attack.
• Avoid using high-nitrogen lawn fertilizers under trees, and never use weed-and-feed products, which can harm tree roots.

Watering Restrictions

Even if your municipality imposes watering restrictions, it's likely you'll be able to properly water trees. If you must choose between turf and trees, remember that trees are a bigger investment. And it will take years, if not decades, for a newly planted tree to take the place of a mature tree that has been lost to drought.

Source: http://www.gardeners.com/how-to/when-to-water-trees/7931.html

We've Got Big Balls.

Root balls, that is! 

Bowhall Balls

Our trees are grown in rich river loam soil under drip irrigation and dug with a tree spade with proper sizing to ensure your investment keeps growing. 

Two Tree Spades

Here at the nursery the sun is shining and all hands are on deck. Our crew has been busily harvesting this year's trees for your landscape. We're digging all different types of ornamental and shade trees that are unlike anything you'll find at a big box store. 


So, if you're thinking of a shade or ornamental tree for your landscape this spring, visit us to reserve a tree dug especially for you.

Weeping Cherry

2016 Gardening Trends

The gardening trend we expect to see most in 2016 is: "Syncing With Nature."

Connecting with nature for your health

Take it from us, gardening is great for your spiritual, mental and emotional well-being. This year, while spending time in your garden, be sure to inhale deeply and savor all the fresh air around you. When your hands are covered with dirt after a hard days work, think about how dirt sustains life. 

Incorporate more native plants in the garden

When planning your landscape this year, try to utilize as many plants and shrubs that are native to your area as possible. They are critical for maintaining biodiversity, which is what ensures a well-rounded environment for other plants, insects and wildlife to not only enjoy, but flourish in.

Create a hardier landscape: More trees, shrubs, and evergreens; fewer annuals.

While annuals need to be replanted yearly, using a majority of trees, shrubs and evergreen will create a landscape that will last year after year when cared for properly. An established landscape will also do wonders for your home or business' drive up appearance. 

Tiny gardens for tiny spaces.

No matter how much or how little space you have, you can create a garden best suited to your needs. There are countless DIY instructions out there for container gardens and raised beds. Get creative!

Reducing chemical use in the garden.

We recommend using as many natural gardening products in your landscape as possible. While chemical treatments might seem to be more efficient, they are actually more harmful to our environment in the long-run. Using natural products will protect your plants without causing unnecessary harm to their surroundings. 

November Garden Tasks

Vegetable Garden 

• Clean out old plants and compost including Asparagus beds as the fronds fade. Harvest Jerusalem artichokes, broccoli, radishes, peas, parsnips, lettuce, leeks, potatoes, kale, collards, celery, cauliflower, cabbage and Brussels sprouts.
• Prepare beds for early plantings of peas this allows for an earlier planting in the spring before the soil dries out enough to be worked.
• Plant Fava beans (cover crops can double as a source of beans for the table), garlic, onions, rhubarb and artichokes.
• Prune the fruiting top sections of evergreen raspberries once they finish producing fruit and leave the lower section of branch for next years early crop. Other raspberries can be topped off at 5 feet and staked.
• Store your bounty by freezing canning or hanging in a cool garage.

Flower Garden

• Plant pansies outdoors now and enjoy the flowers until late spring. Mound soil or leaves around the base of hybrid teas and other grafted roses to protect the graft union from frost.
• Prune rampant suckers from the base of lilacs which will take away from next years bloom.
• Prepare and plant wildflower bed and broadcast seeds. This can be done in the spring as well but you can get a head start now and focus on other tasks come spring.

General Landscaping 

• Prepare open beds in the flower and vegetable garden with organic matter and organic fertilizers. Chopped leaves, peat moss or compost can be added now to improve the soil’s humus levels. This improves the structure, drainage and nutrient holding capacity of your soil. For established beds work in organic matter and fertilizers around the plants and cultivate them into the to few inches of soil.
• Mow lawn to 1.5 to 2 inches for the winter This keeps the lawn healthy and prevents the lawn from matting down.
• Keep leaves and compost or make a dedicated leaf mold pile for future mulch unless they are from allelopathic trees (producing chemicals that inhibit other species growth) like the genera Juglans (e.g. Black Walnut or Aesculus (e.g. Horse Chestnut).
• Drain and clean man made pools and ponds. Remove tropical plants and store hardy lilies.
• Very last call for planting trees and shrubs including woody fruiting plants.

Source: http://www.horticultureguy.com/garden-calendar-planner/november-garden-tasks/

Top 5 Must Do's Before Winter

With a little preventative maintenance in the fall your lawn and property will be in great shape in the spring. Here is a list of things you can do to make your life easier when things begin to get green again.

 
1. The biggest chore in late autumn is getting the lawn ready for the winter season. You should mow your lawn right up to the time it quits growing in the late fall. The grass should be cut to a level of two inches at last cutting. A good sign it has quit growing is the absence of lawn clippings when you run the mower. If it is higher than two inches, winter winds and wet weather will flatten the grass, bending it over and causing it to retain moisture, which can lead to bacterial growth and mold, damaging the roots. If the grass is too short, the lawn will suffer from drying winter winds, and can be damaged by the sun. Always remove any leaves and debris from the lawn. Leaves left lying on your lawn all winter long can prevent water from reaching the grass, or will trap too much moisture. This causes the grass to rot and die before spring. 
2. Now is the time to fertilize the lawn. Look for fertilizers high in nitrogen. You may also consider a fertilizer that is lower in nitrogen, but higher in phosphorus and potassium. By fertilizing in late fall, you will encourage lush growth in the spring. 
3. Clean up the lawn mower. Wash and dry it, removing caked on dirt, lawn clippings, and grease. Remove any caked on grass from the mower deck, and inspect the blade for damage. Determine if it should be sharpened or replaced before spring. Putting you mower up on blocks during winter months is a good idea, also. It prevents flat spots from wearing in the rubber. 
   
4. Be careful in pruning trees late in the year. Many ornamental trees such as azalea, dogwood, forsythia, redbud and rhododendron set their buds for blooms in the late fall, and pruning them can destroy next season's blooms. Do remove any obviously dead branches.
5. Thoroughly drain all water hoses, coil them, and store in a dry area. if using a hose reel, insure that all water is drained from the hose to prevent freezing and cracking during cold weather.  
   Drain all faucets and valves, and turn off the water supply to them from the basement if you can. Turn over empty outside containers to prevent water collection and freezing, and store all birdbaths for the winter. 

Source: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/toptenthingstodo#b

Winterizing Trees & Shrubs

Most shrubs and trees require no special preparation for winter, aside from making sure they are watered and old flower heads are removed.

Trees with smooth bark will benefit from tree wrap. Starting at the base of the tree, wrap the trunk to the lowest branch, overlapping each layer by 1/3. Secure at the top with duct tape or twine. Remove the tree wrap by the end of April.

Broadleaf evergreens, such as Holly and Rhododendron, can be sprayed with Wilt Pruf to prevent dissecation. Apply late in the season while temperatures are still above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. You can reapply mid-winter if there is a brief warm spell. Wilt Pruf can also by sprayed on any plant, with or without leaves, that is in a very windy location. Use with caution on plants with very fine needles (Hemlock, Arborvitae, Juniper); follow the product’s instructions on the label.

Plants sensitive to wind or sunburn can also be wrapped with burlap. Wrap in late fall and secure with twine or staples. Burlap can also be used to protect plants from deer and rabbits.

A-frame shrub protectors can be placed over plants that are under the drip line of your roof to protect them from snow or ice damage. They will also provide some protection from wind and sun.

Spray-on deer and rabbit repellants can be applied mid- to late fall. Follow the product’s instructions on the label for effective coverage.

A small group of shrubs require special winter care: Buddleia (Butterfly Bush), Caryopteris, Vitex (Chaste Tree), Scotch Broom, Big Leaf Hydrangeas (pink or blue flowering varieties). After the leaves have fallen from these plants, apply 12–18” at this time. Caryopteris, Scotch Broom and Hydrangeas can be cut back to green growth in the spring. The mulch should be removed in spring as the temperature warms.

The following plants are slow to start growing in the spring, so a little patience is required: Butterfly Bush, Caryopteris, Chaste Tree, Ornamental Grasses, Hardy Hibiscus.

9/11 Memorial and the Significance of the Trees Selected

Crews selected and harvested trees from within a 500-mile radius of the World Trade Center site, with additional ones coming from locations in Pennsylvania and near Washington, D.C. (Maryland), areas impacted on September 11, 2001.

Swamp white oaks (Quercus bicolor) were picked because of their durability and leaf color. In fall, the leaf color ranges from amber to a golden brown – and sometimes pink. The trees can grow to reach heights as tall as 60 feet in conditions similar to those on the plaza. The trees will never be identical, growing at different heights and changing leaves at different times, a physical reminder that they are living individuals.

Source: http://www.911memorial.org/selecting-trees

August Gardening Tips for the Northeast: Watering Tips

Water plants a few hours before applying pesticides, especially during times of drought. In these conditions, plants have less water in tissues, and as pesticides enter cells, they may burn leaves.

Avoid watering during midday, when more water will evaporate than soak into soil.

It's not uncommon for plants to wilt on hot afternoons even though soil has adequate moisture. The wilting occurs because plants are losing water faster than their roots can absorb it. Leaves should revive by early evening, after the sun is no longer directly on leaves. If not, water deeply.

Some shrubs need weekly deep watering now. Rhododendrons are beginning to form flower buds for next year's show, and adequate water is vital. Fruiting plants, such as hollies and firethorn, need water to ensure berries mature and don't drop.

Test Garden Tip: Water newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials -- any plants you added to your yard last fall or spring. These plants need weekly irrigation to ensure roots establish deeply.

Source: http://www.bhg.com/gardening/gardening-by-region/northeast/august-tips-the-northeast/

Benefits of Trees

The Value of Trees to a Community

The following are some statistics on just how important trees are in a community setting.

The net cooling effect of a young, healthy tree is equivalent to ten room-size air conditioners operating 20 hours a day. U.S. Department of Agriculture

If you plant a tree today on the west side of your home, in 5 years your energy bills should be 3% less. In 15 years the savings will be nearly 12%. Dr. E. Greg McPherson, Center for Urban Forest Research

A mature tree can often have an appraised value of between $1,000 and $10,000. Council of Tree and Landscape Appraisers

In one study, 83% of realtors believe that mature trees have a ‘strong or moderate impact’ on the salability of homes listed for under $150,000; on homes over $250,000, this perception increases to 98%. Arbor National Mortgage & American Forests

Landscaping, especially with trees, can increase property values as much as 20 percent. Management Information Services/ICMA

One acre of forest absorbs six tons of carbon dioxide and puts out four tons of oxygen. This is enough to meet the annual needs of 18 people. U.S. Department of Agriculture

There are about 60– to 200-million spaces along our city streets where trees could be planted. This translates to the potential to absorb 33 million more tons of CO2 every year, and saving $4 billion in energy costs. National Wildlife Federation

Trees properly placed around buildings can reduce air conditioning needs by 30 percent and can save 20–50 percent in energy used for heating. USDA Forest Service

Trees can be a stimulus to economic development, attracting new business and tourism. Commercial retail areas are more attractive to shoppers, apartments rent more quickly, tenants stay longer, and space in a wooded setting is more valuable to sell or rent. The Arbor Day Foundation

Healthy, mature trees add an average of 10 percent to a property’s value. USDA Forest Service

The planting of trees means improved water quality, resulting in less runoff and erosion. This allows more recharging of the ground water supply. Wooded areas help prevent the transport of sediment and chemicals into streams. USDA Forest Service

In laboratory research, visual exposure to settings with trees has produced significant recovery from stress within five minutes, as indicated by changes in blood pressure and muscle tension. Dr. Roger S. Ulrich Texas A&M University

Nationally, the 60 million street trees have an average value of $525 per tree. Management Information Services

To help locate New York City’s heritage trees, the City Department of Parks and Recreation conducted a program called the “Great Tree Search.” New Yorkers looked for trees of unusual size and age, those linked with historic landmarks, and trees of unusual species or location. On Arbor Day, they held a big party to celebrate New York City’s Great Trees.

After a tornado destroyed more than 800 trees in Cardington, Ohio, citizens organized a tree restoration committee which solicited donations and memorials. Volunteers who learned of the tree planting through local newspaper articles appeared on Arbor Day to wrap trunks, water, mulch, and stake 40 large trees which were planted along major streets.

Source: http://www.arborday.org/trees/benefits.cfm

Understanding Plant Hardiness Zones

You might've noticed when it comes to talking about plants that we sometimes include a zone number. That number is important because it helps you better determine what plants will not only grow, but thrive in your area. Check out this helpful map and corresponding legend from the USDA to figure out which zone you're located in.

Attracting Hummingbirds

Hummingbirds are attracted to a bird garden habitat:

• Make fresh water available for drinking and bathing. 
• Provide both sun and shade areas. Hummingbirds need shade to perch and to build their tiny nests. 
• Hummingbirds may become reliant on your garden. When there are no blossoms, provide hummingbird feeders hung 30 feet apart throughout your garden. The best color for a feeder is red. 
• Fill feeders with a sugar-water mix of one part sugar to four parts water. 
• Keep feeders clean and filled. 
• Never use honey that can develop a fungus fatal to hummingbirds. 
• Hummingbirds are attracted to flower colors and nectar, not fragrances.

Favorite Flowers—Perennials

Bee balm .................. Monarda didyma 

Butterfly weed......Ascelpias tuberosa 

Columbine........................Aquilegia sp. 

Coral bells ......... Heuchera sanguinea 

Cosmos...............................Cosmos sp. 

Dahlia.....................................Dahlia sp. 

Delphinium...........Delphinium elatum 

Foxglove ................................... Digitalis 

Fuchsia.......................................Fuchsia 

Geranium....................Pelargonium sp. 

Hollyhock........ Althea rosea (biennial) 

Lupine..........................Lupinus hybrids 

Penstemon.................... Penstemon sp. 

Red Hot Poker ........ Kniphofia uvaria 

Sage ..............................Salvia officinalis 

Speedwell...................Veronica hybrids

Favorite Flowers—Annuals

Mountain garland ...... Clarkia elegans 

Touch-me-not ................ Impatiens sp. 

Flowering tobacco .... Nicotiana alata 

Nasturtium............Tropaeolum majus 

Petunia..........................Petunia hybrids 

Spider flower ....... Cleome hasslerana 

Zinnia.....................................Zinnia sp. 

Verbena .............................. Verbena sp.

Bulbs, Corms and Tubers

Tuberous begonia............. Begonia sp. 

Canna.....................................Canna sp. 

Gladiolus .......................... Gladiolus sp. 

Iris.................................................Iris sp. 

Montbretia..................... Crocosmia sp.

Vines

Bougainvillea..............Bougainvillea sp. 

Cardinal climber..Ipomoea quamoclit 

Honeysuckle......................Lonicera sp. 

Lantana...............................Lantana sp. 

Rosary Vine.............. Ceropegia woodii 

Trumpet vines.....Campsis grandiflora

Shrubs and Trees

Abelia........................Abelia grandiflora 

Azalea ...................... Rhododendron sp. 

Bottlebrush....Callistemon lanceolatus 

Butterfly bush ............Buddleia davidii 

Cotoneaster............... Cotoneaster sp. 

Eucalyptus......................Eucalyptus sp. 

Flowering quince.....Chaenomeles sp. 

Fuchsia.................Fuchsia arborescens 

Hibiscus..............................Hiviscus sp. 

Lilac ...................................... Syringa sp. 

Weigela.......................... Weigela rosea

Planting Near or Within a Leach Field

Planting over a septic system’s leach field can be a challenge because every drain field is unique. But, there are a few hard and fast rules to what can be planted. You decide what will work best in your situation by following a few simple guidelines:

If possible, plant between the drainage lines and at the ends because it will be dryer.

For larger trees (30 feet or taller), plant, if possible, the same number of feet away from the leach field as the tree is tall at its maximum height (i.e. plant a 50 ft. maximum height tree, 50 feet from the leach field.)

Trees and Shrubs that are OK to plant near/within a leach field:

Ornamental Cherries 

Ornamental Crabapples 

Dogwood (tree and shrub) 

Serviceberry (tree and shrub) 

Hemlock

Oak 

Pines 

Holly

Blueberries 

Rose 

Viburnum 

Boxwood 

Spirea 

Arborvitae 

Forsythia

Perennials that are OK to plant near/within leach fields:

Hollyhocks 

Beebalm 

Violets 

Yarrow 

Peony

Columbine 

Chrysanthemum 

Delphinium 

Daylilies 

Clematis

Do NOT plant the following trees within your leach field:

Beech 

Birch 

Elm 

Poplar

Red Maple 

Silver Maple 

Walnut 

Willow

Planting Trees & Shrubs

Choose the right spot. Does the plant need sun? Shade? Wind protection?

1. Dig the right hole! Dig the hole up to 50% wider than the root ball width and only the depth of the root ball. When the plant is in the hole the top of the ball or root system should be slightly above ground level.

2. Base. The base or bottom of the hole should be undisturbed soil to support the root ball and reduce settling.

3. Burlap covered root balls should not be disturbed. Put ball in prepared hole. Remove twine from top of ball, pull burlap away from top. Leave the wire basket in place so root ball will not be injured. Bend down the edges of the basket below soil line.

4. For container-grown plants, remove the pot and slice the roots 1/2 inch deep, several times around from top to bottom of root system.

5. Backfill. Using a mixture of the topsoil from the hole, add 25% of a soil amendment such as organic compost. Shovel the mixture around the roots. Do not heap soil around the trunk of the plants. Tamp lightly to remove air pockets. Make a shallow rim around the root ball to prevent water runoff.

6. Water thoroughly. Use a how and turn water pressure down low and allow the water to slowly run through the soil of the new planting, deep into the root system. Mix root stimulator, such as Starter Plus, in a watering can and apply around root zone.

Regular watering is essential to the survival of the plant. New plantings need to receive a thorough watering several times a week, soaking the entire root system. This should occur for four to six weeks, then weekly thereafter. However, be careful not to overwater the plant. Check the soil before and after watering.

7. Apply mulch at a depth of two to three inches around the base of the plant. Keep mulch away from the trunk.

8. There is no need to fertilize until the follow- ing spring. Use a slow-release fertilizer such as Osmocote, Tree-Tone or Jobes spikes. Evergreens prefer an acid plant food such as Holly-tone or Miracid.

Special planting instructions for Rhododendrons and Yews: Plant them high! Rhododendrons and yews do not tolerate wet soil and should be planted only in well-drained soil. to keep the roots drier, they should be planted with up to 1/4 of the root ball depth above the existing soil level. If wrapped in burlap, carefully cut away as much of the burlap as possible, once placed in the hole.

FAQs

What is the drip line?

The drip line is where the water drips from the outermost edge of the plant’s canopy.

My tree is not producing leaves. Is it dead?

Trees and shrubs have different dormant periods and different growth periods. Viability is determined by the presence or absence of green tissue under the bark.

How can I tell if I am watering my tree too much or too little? Slow drip watering is best for newly planted materials. Turn hose on with 1/4” stream of water running at the base of the plant. water trees for 1/2 hour and shrubs for 15 minutes. Water 1–3 times per week, as needed (with consideration to natural rainfall). Use a moisture meter to determine how moist the soil is prior to watering.

What is the scratch test?

Take a sharp object and scratch a small area of surface bark off to determine if there is healthy tissue (usually green) beneath the bark.

The New York Botannical Garden: Creating a Bird Garden

Creating a bird garden is a wonderful way to attract birds to your yard. The best way to create a bird garden is to provide birds with what they need: shelter, food, water, and places to nest.

• Shelter:
  Birds need shelter to protect them from predators and the elements. In the winter, they need protection from snow, and during the year they seek refuge from heavy rain, wind, and predators.
• Food:
  Plants supply birds with a large part of their diet, from seeds and fruits to providing a home for the insects that many birds feed on.
• Water: Birds need water for drinking and bathing. Smaller birds tend to bathe in 1/2 inches of water, while larger birds prefer a 2-inch depth. You can build a small garden pond, buy a birdbath from a garden center, or place a large, shallow dish of water in your garden.
• Nesting Sites:Birds have different requirements for nesting sites.  Some birds like to build their nests in evergreens (such as pine or spruce), while others prefer deciduous trees (such as oak, birch, apple and ash), where they can make their homes either in the intersections of large branches or in cavities in tree trunks. Shrubs that are not too dense or thinly branched often make good homes for bird nests. However, plants such as rhododendrons and viburnums do not have the three-way forks in their branch structure that can support a nest.  While these shrubs offer important shelter and food for birds, they do not provide a suitable nesting site.

Designing a Bird Garden

• Design your garden with varying layers--tall trees, medium-size shrubs and perennials & ornamental grasses. This will accommodate many different types of birds.
• Plant your garden to provide shelter for birds. Planting evergreens on the northern side of your property will protect birds from cold northerly winds while allowing sunlight into the south side of the garden.
• Plant perennials and smaller shrubs in groups of threes, fives, or sevens to create a more natural look and to cover an area that birds can easily find and use. If you plant only one shrub that produces berries, for example, the berries may be decimated after birds' first visit.
• Variety is important -- select a range of plants that provide food at different times of the season and attract a variety of bird species.
• Create a dust bath in a sunny spot near the area where your birds feed. Sparrows in particular love to spend hours playing on dusty ground, and they are entertaining to watch.
• Although it is important to rake the leaves on your lawn to prevent turf die-off, do not remove leaf litter in your perennial beds or under your shrubs. These leaves will compost and provide important nutrients to the soil. They will also be a haven for many of the insects that birds feed on.
• Create a brush pile at the edge of your property, starting with your old Christmas tree and any fallen branches from trees and shrubs. Create a 6-foot-long pile with loosely stacked branches. Brush piles provide cover for birds and attract insects to their decaying branches.

PLANTS THAT ATTRACT BIRDS

Trees

Botanical Name	Common Name	Attractor
Abies sp.	firs	shelter and nesting
Acer sp.	maples	fruit or seeds
Betula sp.	birches	fruit or seeds, shelter and nesting
Cornus sp.	dogwoods	fruit or seeds
Ilex sp.	hollies	fruit or seeds
Juniperus sp.	junipers/red cedars	fruit or seeds, shelter and nesting
Malus sp.	apples and crabapples	fruit or seeds
Picea sp.	spruces	fruit or seeds, shelter and nesting
Pinus sp.	pines	fruit or seeds, shelter and nesting
Prunus sp.	cherries	fruit or seeds
Quercus sp.	oaks	shelter and nesting
Sorbus sp.	mountain ash	fruit or seeds
Tsuga sp.	hemlocks	shelter and nesting

Shrubs

Botanical Name	Common Name	Attractor
Alnus sp.	alders	nesting
Amelanchier sp.	shadbush	fruit or seeds
Ilex sp.	hollies	fruit or seeds
Juniperus sp.	junipers	shelter
Leucothoe sp.	leucothoes	shelter
Myrica sp.	bayberry	fruit or seeds
Rhododendron sp.	rhododendrons	shelter
Rhus sp.	blackberries	fruit or seeds
Rosa sp.	roses	nesting
Spiraea sp.	spireas	nesting
Syringa sp.	lilacs	nesting
Taxus sp.	yews	nesting
Vaccinium sp.	blueberries	fruit or seeds
Viburnum sp.	viburnums	fruit or seeds

Perennials and Annuals

Botanical Name	Common Name	Attractor
Aster sp.	aster	seeds and nectar
Coreopsis sp.	coreopsis, tickseed	seeds and nectar
Cosmos sp.	cosmos	seeds and nectar
Echinacea sp.	coneflowers	seeds and nectar
Eupatorium sp.	Joe-pye weed	seeds and nectar
Helianthus sp.	sunflowers	seeds and nectar
Liatris sp.	blazing star	seeds and nectar
Rudbeckia sp.	black-eyed Susans	seeds and nectar
Sedum sp.	sedums	seeds and nectar
Solidago sp.	goldenrod	seeds and nectar
Tagetes sp.	marigolds	seeds and nectar
Vernonia noveboracensis	New York ironweed	seeds and nectar
Zinnia sp.	zinnias	seeds and nectar

Homemade Bird Feeder

It's not a plant, but a bird feeder can provide supplementary food for your bird garden. Here is a recipe for a simple one:

• Mix 1 cup of peanut butter with 1/4 cup of honey.
• Spread this mixture on a pine cone or bagel.
• Roll the pine cone or bagel in birdseed.
• Add a piece of yarn, and hang the feeder from a tree.

Source: http://libguides.nybg.org/birdgarden?hs=a

18 Reasons to Plant a Tree

1. Alleviating the “Greenhouse Effect,” trees act as carbon “sinks.”

• One acre of new forest will sequester about 2.5 tons of carbon annually. Trees can absorb CO2 at the rate of 13 pounds/tree/year. Trees reach their most productive stage of carbon storage at about 10 years.
• In its “Reforesting the Earth” paper, the Worldwatch Institute estimated that our planet needs at least 321 mil- lion acres planted to trees
• just to restore and maintain the productivity of soil and water resources, meet industrial and fuel-wood needs in the third world, and annually remove from the atmosphere roughly 780 million tons of carbon as the trees grow. This 780 million tons represents the removal of about 25 percent of the 2.9 billion tons of carbon currently going into the earth’s atmosphere.
• Planting 100 million trees could reduce the amount of carbon by an estimated 18 million tons per year and, at the same time, save American consumers $4 billion each year on utility bills.
• For every ton of new wood that grows, about 1.5 tons of CO2 are removed from the air, and 1.07 tons of life-giving oxygen is produced. During a 50-year life span, one tree will generate $30,000 in oxygen, recycle $35,000 worth of water, and clean up $60,000 worth of air pollution—or $125,000 total per tree without including any other values!

2. Prevents or reduces soil erosion and water pollution.

3. Helps recharge ground water and sustain stream flow.

4. Properly placed screens of trees and shrubs significantly decrease noise pollution along busy

thoroughfares and intersections. 5. Screen unsightly views.

6. Soften harsh outlines of buildings.

7. Depending on location, species, size, and condition, shade from trees can reduce utility bills for air conditioning in residential and commercial buildings by 15–50 percent. Trees, through their shade and transpiration, provide natural “low-tech” cooling that means less need to build additional dams, power plants, and nuclear generators.

8. Windbreaks around homes can be shields against wind and snow, and heating

costs can be reduced by as much as 30 percent.

9. Shade from trees cools hot streets and parking lots. Cities are “heat islands” that are 5–9 degrees hotter than surrounding areas. And cities spread each year.

10. Trees and shrubs properly placed and cared for on a residential or commercial lot can significantly increase property values.

11. Trees also provide nutmeats (walnuts, pecans, and hickory), fruit (plum, peaches, apples, and pears), berries for jams and jellies (chokeberry and buffalo berry) and maple syrup.

12. Trees add beauty and grace to any community setting. They make life more enjoyable, peaceful, relaxing, and offer a rich inheritance for future generations.

13. Trees give people a multitude of recreational opportunities and provide habitat for wildlife.

14. Trees along rivers, streams, and lakes reduce water temperatures by their shade, prevent or reduce bank erosion and silt, and provide hiding places for improving fisheries habitat.

15. They provide brilliant colors to landscapes in the fall. After the leaves drop to the ground and are raked, they provide excellent mulch for flowerbeds and gardens as well as exercise for people.

16. Police officers believe that trees and landscaping can instill community pride and help cool tempers that sometimes erupt during “long, hot summers.”

17. Trees are valuable as commemoratives of deceased loved ones and for passing on something of value to future generations.

18. Finally, many people enjoy planting and caring for trees simply because they like to see them grow.

Sources: Glenn Roloff USDA Forest Service – Northern Region Missoula, Montana