Time to Divide Your Peonies!

Now is a good time to divide peonies. 

If you have been moving things around in your garden and have some peonies, you might wonder if you find the little tubers left behind, can you plant them and expect them to grow. The answer is yes, but there is an appropriate way of propagating peony plants that you should follow if you expect to be successful.

How to Propagate Peonies

If you have been considering propagating peony plants, you should know there are some important steps to follow. The only way to multiply peony plants is to divide peonies. This might sound complicated, but it’s not.

First, you need to use a sharp spade and dig around the peony plant. Be very careful not to damage the roots. You want to be sure to dig up as much of the root as possible.

Once you have the roots out of the ground, rinse them vigorously with the hose so they are clean and you can actually see what you have. What you are looking for are the crown buds. These will actually be the part that comes through the ground after planting and forms a new peony plant when you divide peonies.

After rinsing, you should leave the roots in the shade so they soften up a bit. They will be easier to cut. When you are propagating peony plants, you should use a strong knife and cut the roots all the way back to only about six inches from the crown. Again, this is because the crown grows into the peony and dividing peony plants requires a crown on each piece you plant.
You will want to make sure each piece has at least one crown bud. Three visible crown buds is best. However, at least one will do. You will continue to divide peonies until you have as many peonies as you can get from the roots you originally dug up.

Plant the pieces in a location suitable for growing peonies. Make sure the buds on the pieces are not more than 2 inches under the soil or they may have trouble growing. If the temperatures are fairly even, you can actually store your pieces in peat moss until you are ready to plant them on a warmer day. Don’t store them too long or they may dry out and won’t grow. 

So now you know that propagating peony plants isn’t too terribly difficult, and so long as you have one good peony plant to dig up, you can be dividing peony plants and create many in no time.

Source: http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/peony/dividing-peony-plants.htm

How to Prune Evergreens

Most varieties of evergreens should be trimmed each year, as they need it, to keep looking their best and to retain their symmetry.

In the pruning of evergreens, it is desirous to retain the natural growing habits as much as possible, merely removing some of the longer, ragged-looking tips to encourage a denser, full growth. Evergreens are seldom trimmed sufficiently. 

Juniper

Arbor Vitae

Juniper & Arbor Vitae 

These are the “finger group.” Their branches grow out like myriads of tiny green hands. (See sketch 4.) Do not cut the protecting tips like fingers caught in a saw, but neatly disjoint them at the stem points. Arbor Vitae may be sheared severely, and thrive best if pruned in this manner. Junipers often lose their attractive appearance if sheared too heavily. For unique effects with spreading evergreens planted in rockeries or rock walls, weird shapes are often desirable to obtain attractive effects. (See sketch 10.) By pruning off some of the side branches, you may encourage them to trail in varying directions. Arbor Vitae make beautiful evergreen hedges, although they require consistent shearing and shaping each summer to make them compact and uniform. 

Douglas Fir

Fir and Spruce

These are the “Christmas Tree” groups which appear best as a perfect cone of soft masses of needles not too obviously pruned. All branches projecting beyond the natural pyramid nature should be cut back into line, and prune the side growth to overcome patchiness and encourage dense growth. In pruning these varieties you are dealing with the buds which form the new growth. On each branch tip there is a cluster of buds, usually dominated by a large central bud. (See sketch 9.) On the branches where bushiness is desired, remove the central bud carefully with the thumb and forefinger. The remaining buds will branch out making the tree dense and compact. If the branch is to continue in a straight line, the central bud must be carefully preserved. The topmost straightest point of the tree is the central leader. This bud must be saved, and if damaged or blighted, two leaders will form which will spoil the appearance of the tree. (See sketch 6.) Should this happen through some catastrophe, tie a brace to the most vigorous side branch and tie into an upright position with soft twine or cloth strips. (See sketch 7.)

Hemlock and Taxus (Yews)

Taxus Baccata

These are the “fern-like groups” and the most graceful of all evergreens, with long sweeping branches. Taxus usually require shortening of the long shoots they put forth in the early spring to keep them from becoming too open. (See sketch 8.) Hemlocks require some trimming, also, especially in shady locations. Do not shear with hedge shears, but rather remove the longest shoots at the branch base. (See sketch 5.)

Pine

The pine is a “rugged individual.” Seldom does it require shearing, and pruning destroys its individual characteristics. Like the Fir and Spruce, the central leader should be preserved and retained by tying to a brace if it becomes destroyed. The Mugho Pine (dwarf, globe shaped) is one exception. Prune this tree as you would a Juniper to keep it tight and symmetrical, by cutting back the new growth to one-half its length each sum- mer. If left untrimmed, it becomes ragged.