Tuesday, July 28, 2015

Benefits of Trees

The Value of Trees to a Community

The following are some statistics on just how important trees are in a community setting.

The net cooling effect of a young, healthy tree is equivalent to ten room-size air conditioners operating 20 hours a day. U.S. Department of Agriculture

If you plant a tree today on the west side of your home, in 5 years your energy bills should be 3% less. In 15 years the savings will be nearly 12%. Dr. E. Greg McPherson, Center for Urban Forest Research

A mature tree can often have an appraised value of between $1,000 and $10,000. Council of Tree and Landscape Appraisers

In one study, 83% of realtors believe that mature trees have a ‘strong or moderate impact’ on the salability of homes listed for under $150,000; on homes over $250,000, this perception increases to 98%. Arbor National Mortgage & American Forests

Landscaping, especially with trees, can increase property values as much as 20 percent. Management Information Services/ICMA

One acre of forest absorbs six tons of carbon dioxide and puts out four tons of oxygen. This is enough to meet the annual needs of 18 people. U.S. Department of Agriculture

There are about 60– to 200-million spaces along our city streets where trees could be planted. This translates to the potential to absorb 33 million more tons of CO2 every year, and saving $4 billion in energy costs. National Wildlife Federation

Trees properly placed around buildings can reduce air conditioning needs by 30 percent and can save 20–50 percent in energy used for heating. USDA Forest Service

Trees can be a stimulus to economic development, attracting new business and tourism. Commercial retail areas are more attractive to shoppers, apartments rent more quickly, tenants stay longer, and space in a wooded setting is more valuable to sell or rent. The Arbor Day Foundation

Healthy, mature trees add an average of 10 percent to a property’s value. USDA Forest Service

The planting of trees means improved water quality, resulting in less runoff and erosion. This allows more recharging of the ground water supply. Wooded areas help prevent the transport of sediment and chemicals into streams. USDA Forest Service

In laboratory research, visual exposure to settings with trees has produced significant recovery from stress within five minutes, as indicated by changes in blood pressure and muscle tension. Dr. Roger S. Ulrich Texas A&M University

Nationally, the 60 million street trees have an average value of $525 per tree. Management Information Services

To help locate New York City’s heritage trees, the City Department of Parks and Recreation conducted a program called the “Great Tree Search.” New Yorkers looked for trees of unusual size and age, those linked with historic landmarks, and trees of unusual species or location. On Arbor Day, they held a big party to celebrate New York City’s Great Trees.

After a tornado destroyed more than 800 trees in Cardington, Ohio, citizens organized a tree restoration committee which solicited donations and memorials. Volunteers who learned of the tree planting through local newspaper articles appeared on Arbor Day to wrap trunks, water, mulch, and stake 40 large trees which were planted along major streets.

Saturday, July 18, 2015

All About Hostas

The ease of care and minimal maintenance needed to successfully grow this group makes it one of the most popular selections for a shady garden. Their leaves, which vary greatly in shape, texture, color and size, are their number-one feature. Dwarf varieties under 4” tall are easy to grow, as are their 3’ tall siblings. Leaf colors include variegated green, gold, blue-green, chartreuse, and yellow. Fantastic variegation patterns of white or gold are quite common. Most will bloom with tubular white or lavender flowers in the summer months.

Site requirements
• Hostas prefer shady gardens, though some varieties have been developed for full sun exposure.
• Hostas tend to be heavy feeders. Best growth occurs in well-drained soils high in organic matter.
• Consistent moisture will enable the plant to reach their fullest potential. Wet conditions should be avoided. Likewise, extremely dry conditions will have a stunting effect on the plant. 
• An annual spring
feeding with a slow-release fertilizer is recommended. Do not fertilize the plant after August.

• Mulching will help to retain soil moisture, but it should be kept slightly away from the base stalks of the plan. Mulching may in- crease snail and slug populations, a common pest, so try using cocoa shell mulch or pine bark nuggets instead of ground mulches.
“Let’s Grow Green Together”

• Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the entire root structure without crowding.
• If planting bare-rooted plants, spread roots evenly around the hole.
• For container-grown plants, lightly loosen the root ball before placing it in the hole.
• Set plants so that the top/root junction is at the soil level. Lightly tamp down the soil to eliminate any air pockets.
• Finally, provide a deep, slow watering. Watering should be done so as to be sure it reaches the bottom of the root zone.

• While not usually needing a division, Hostas may be easily divided for additional plants.
• Collect divisions by cutting or pulling clumps into small clusters in early spring.
• Be sure each cluster has several shoots and plenty of roots.
• Wait at least three years for new plants to establish themselves before dividing.

• Spent flowers can be clipped off. 
• Both leaves and flower stalks are suitable for cut decorative uses. 
• Remove foliage to ground after a killing frost.

Insect & Disease
Hostas have very few insect and disease issues. Ask a respected Garden Center Professional for more information.

Hostas that Tolerate Sun
August Moon 
Albo Picta 
Chinese Sunrise 
Fragrant Bouquet 
Frosted Jade 
Ginko Craig 
Gold Drip 
Gold Standard 
Royal Standard 
So Sweet
Sum and Substance 
Sun Power 
Wide Brim 
Undulata Albomarginata

Thursday, July 9, 2015

Special Plants for Special Conditions: Moist Soils

Plants that will tolerate moist soils: 

Inca Minor
 Pin Oak

Other notable mentions: 
Ash (some)
Swamp (Red) Maple
Viburnum (some)
Bog Myrtle
Holly - deciduous only

Understanding Plant Hardiness Zones

You might've noticed when it comes to talking about plants that we sometimes include a zone number. That number is important because it helps you better determine what plants will not only grow, but thrive in your area. Check out this helpful map and corresponding legend from the USDA to figure out which zone you're located in.

Houseplants: Easiest to Grow

When you buy a plant to keep indoors, take time to learn about its needs. Most of our plants come with basic care instructions on their tags. We will be happy to help you learn about your plant and its requirements.

When to water: Most plants die from improper watering. When a plant is too dry, its leaves droop. When a plant has been watered too much, roots begin to rot, leaves eventually wilt and the plant dies. Always water until water drains out the bottom of the pot. Discard water that collects in the saucer. A turkey baster is handy for removing water from the saucers of large plants.
To guide your watering decisions, use a moisture meter.

If you're looking for low-maintenance houseplants, here is a bunch we recommend:

Anthurium - a mix of potting soil and orchid soil is recommended for this cool climate plant

Begonia - soil should remain moist, but not too wet, tolerant of sun and shade

Coleus - this low-maintenance, colorful plant prefers partial shade

Peace Lily - this hardy plant is easy to care for and prefers shady areas

Peperomia - this compact plant is ideal for your desk or small space

Rubber Plant - enjoys bright light and well drained soil

Snake Plant - known for improving indoor air quality

Other notable mentions: 
Arrowhead Vine (Nephthytis) 
Bird’s Nest Fern 
Cast Iron Plant 
Chinese Evergreen 
Corn Plant
Dumb Cane 
Grap & Oakland Ivy 
Norfolk Island Pine 
Piggyback Plant 
Spider Plant 
Split-leaf Philodendron

Wednesday, July 8, 2015

The 13 Best Summer-Blooming Shrubs

Add beautiful blooms without a lot of maintenance to your garden this summer with easy-growing, summer-blooming shrubs. Here are some of the best.

Bluebeard Shrub
Bluebeard Shrub
This shrub is a treat in late summer when it bears its airy clusters of beautiful blue blooms. It's extra-easy to grow, too, laughing off all but the worst heat and drought. As an added bonus, birds and butterflies love it. Bluebeard shrub makes a great cut flower, too.
Name: Caryopteris varieties
Growing Conditions: Full sun and well-drained soil
Size: To 4 feet tall
Zones: 5-9

Butterfly Bush
Butterfly Bush
Butterfly bush is like a summer-flowering lilac. The blooms appear in similar colors -- purple, lavender, blue, pink, and white -- and are deliciously fragrant. Happily, butterfly bushes offer a longer bloom season than lilacs: from summer into autumn, especially if you pinch off the old flower clusters as they start to fade.

Name: Buddleia davidii
Growing Conditions: Full sun and well-drained soil
Size: To 10 feet tall or more
Zones: 5-9

Carolina Allspice
Carolina Allspice
This underused gem offers beautiful deep red flowers in summer. These flowers have a powerful, spicy fragrance you can enjoy throughout the yard. It's also a tough, low-care plant native to areas of North America.

Name: Calycanthus floridus
Growing Conditions: Full sun or partial shade and well-drained soil
Size: To 8 feet tall
Zones: 5-9

Hydrangea Paniculata

Hydrangea Paniculata
Hydrangea paniculata is the easiest hydrangea to grow. In late summer and autumn, this rugged shrub produces fluffy clusters of white flowers that fade to shades of pink and green. Many cultivars, such as 'Tardiva', can be successfully trained into a standard, or miniature tree form -- perfect for a large container or just about any landscape spot.

Name: Hydrangea paniculata
Growing Conditions: Full sun or part shade and well-drained soil
Size: To 10 feet tall and wide
Zones: 4-8

An exceptionally easy-care subtropical shrub, oleander offers summertime flowers in shades of pink, red, purple, lilac, yellow, and white. In fact, it's so foolproof that in many areas it's grown along the sides of highways in warm-weather areas. Note, though: Oleander is extremely poisonous.
Name: Nerium oleander
Size: To 10 feet tall, depending on species
Growing Conditions: Full sun and well-drained soil
Zones: 10-11

Potentilla is one of the most common, and easiest shrubs to grow. It starts blooming in late spring and continues through autumn, bearing cheery yellow, orange, red, or white flowers that look like single roses (which attract butterflies). It has attractively divided foliage.

Name: Potentilla fruticosa
Size: To 3 feet tall
Growing Conditions: Full sun and well-drained soil
Zones: 3-7

Reblooming Hydrangea

Reblooming Hydrangea
While most big leaf hydrangeas flower on branches from the last year (making them susceptible to injury from spring frosts or especially cold winter temperatures), reblooming varieties such as 'Endless Summer' produce flowers on fresh growth. This ensures lots of blooms throughout the summer.

Name: Hydrangea macrophylla varieties
Growing conditions: Part shade and moist, but well-drained soil
Size: To 5 feet tall
Zones: 5-9

Rock Rose
Rock Rose
Rock roses are easy to grow because they tolerate drought so well. They're beautiful, too, producing colorful roselike flowers throughout the summer. And they bloom in a wide range of colors, from pink to purple, lavender, and white.

Name: Cistus varieties
Growing Conditions: Full sun and well-drained soil
Size: To 5 feet tall
Zones: 8-10

Rose of Sharon
Rose of Sharon
You can rely on rose of Sharon to provide lots of color during the hottest months. From midsummer to early autumn, the shrub erupts in tropical-looking blooms in shades of pink, lavender-blue, and white. Tip: When shopping for rose of Sharon, look for sterile varieties, such as 'Minerva', that won't fill your gardenwith a ton of weedy seedlings.

Name: Hibiscus syriacus
Growing Conditions: Full sun and well-drained soil
Size: To 10 feet tall and wide
Zones: 5-9

Shrub Rose
Shrub Rose
Not all roses are finicky, high-maintenance plants. Modern shrub roses offer beautiful blooms all summer and autumn on disease-resistant, easy-growing plants. Flower color differs by variety, but you'll most commonly see shrub roses in shades of pink, red, white, and yellow. Tip: Even modern shrub roses have thorns, so plant them away from sidewalks and pathways.

Name: Rose varieties
Growing Conditions: Full sun and well-drained soil
Size: To 6 feet tall and wide, depending on type
Zones: 3-9, depending on type

Smoke Bush
Smoke Bush 
Smoke bush creates a dramatic shot of color in the landscape, but not because of its pink plumes in summer. It's the foliage that's really spectacular: Most common types have dark purple leaves that erupt into colorful shades of yellow, orange, and red in fall.

Name: Cotinus coggygria
Growing Conditions: Full sun and well-drained soil
Size: To 12 feet tall
Zones: 5-8

There's a good reason spirea is a common sight in city plantings, at restaurants and even gas stations: It's a no-brainer to grow. And spirea is beautiful; in midsummer, it produces clusters of raspberry-rose flowers. Many varieties, such as 'Goldmound', also offer attractive golden or lime-green foliage.

Name: Spiraea japonica
Growing Conditions: Full sun and well-drained soil
Size: To 4 feet tall
Zones: 4-9

We like summersweet because it blooms in shady spots. We also love that its pink or white flowers have a wonderful fragrance. Add its golden fall leaf color and you have an ideal shrub. Note: Look for cultivars, such as 'Ruby Spice', that offer an extra-long bloom season.

Name: Clethra alnifolia
Growing Conditions: Part to full shade and moist soil
Size: To 5 feet tall
Zones: 3-9

Tuesday, July 7, 2015

Green Roofs can be Good for People, too

If you’ll pardon the pun, smart roofs, green roofs, cool roofs – whatever they’re called — are the hottest things in new construction. It’s a global phenomenon: Last month, France passed legislation that new buildings in commercial zones must have either green roofs or solar panels.
France is not alone. In Switzerland, all buildings must have a green roof if they have a suitable pitch. On this side of the Atlantic, Toronto began requiring some new buildings to include rooftop planting in their design as early as 2009; the requirements now apply to industrial buildings as well.
Most of us think green roofs equate to roofs with plants (often succulents or drought-resistant grasses). But smart roof design techniques as basic as painting black roofs white count as well.  Highly reflective surfaces not only cut energy bills, they can potentially improve the health of local residents and citywide environments.
These are the intriguing findings of a consequential new report on the impact of “smart roof” retrofits. The report, by Washington-based green building and technology advisory firm Capital E, examines the results of reroofing efforts on Washington-owned buildings.
We’ve known for years that smart roofs save energy, and we’ve been able to come up with methodologies to quantify those savings. However, the health benefits of such design choices have been harder to figure out. The authors of this report, Greg Kats and Keith Glassbrook, have addressed this complex question, and their findings could have an impact on improving the health of residents in urban areas across the nation.
Roofs typically make up 15 to 25 percent of most cities’ surface areas. And because roofs can typically be replaced or retrofitted more frequently than entire buildings, they represent an opportunity for developers and building owners to dramatically cut the “heat island effect” in urban environments as well as achieve energy cost savings and other goals relatively quickly — as long as they make smart roof design choices.
That’s because lower ambient air temperatures result from the use of smart roof design techniques. Obviously, painting roofs white increases solar reflectivity. Likewise, growing vegetation increases rooftop evaporation and transpiration rates and provides shade to the roof surface. Through these processes, cool roofs and green roofs lower ambient air temperatures and reduce possible airborne pollutants.
Use of such techniques, in turn, can have public health benefits, particularly for low-income and elderly residents who tend to be more vulnerable to illnesses related to extreme heat and poor air quality. Moreover, heat mitigation through adoption of cool and green roofs can help ameliorate the effects of heat stress.  While additional studies can test the report’s more ambitious findings, nevertheless, microclimates should improve with attention to heat-producing surfaces.
The report will prove to be relevant reading for designers, architects or city officials trying to battle the pernicious health effects of urban heat islands. These new methodologies suggest ways for cities to quantify the benefits of their building codes, policies and incentive programs.
Cities across the country that adopt these smart roof technologies may be able to secure private and public benefits that include energy savings for building owners, reduced city peak summer temperatures, enhanced health and livability and perhaps even cuts in global warming.
Check out the report here.
Article by Robert Ivy
Robert Ivy is chief executive of the American Institute of Architects.

Source: http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/where-we-live/wp/2015/04/27/green-roofs-can-be-good-for-people-too/

14 Simple Gardening Tips and Tricks

Our good friend, Paul James, The Gardener Guy, bestowed some of his all time tips and tricks to HGTV. How many have you tried?

1. To remove the salt deposits that form on clay pots, combine equal parts white vinegar, rubbing alcohol and water in a spray bottle. Apply the mixture to the pot and scrub with a plastic brush. Let the pot dry before you plant anything in it.

2. To prevent accumulating dirt under your fingernails while you work in the garden, draw your fingernails across a bar of soap and you'll effectively seal the undersides of your nails so dirt can't collect beneath them. Then, after you've finished in the garden, use a nailbrush to remove the soap and your nails will be sparkling clean.

3. To prevent the line on your string trimmer from jamming or breaking, treat with a spray vegetable oil before installing it in the trimmer.

4. Turn a long-handled tool into a measuring stick! Lay a long-handled garden tool on the ground, and next to it place a tape measure. Using a permanent marker, write inch and foot marks on the handle. When you need to space plants a certain distance apart (from just an inch to several feet) you'll already have a measuring device in your hand.

5. To have garden twine handy when you need it, just stick a ball of twine in a small clay pot, pull the end of the twine through the drainage hole, and set the pot upside down in the garden. Do that, and you'll never go looking for twine again.

6. Little clay pots make great cloches for protecting young plants from sudden, overnight frosts and freezes.

7. To turn a clay pot into a hose guide, just stab a roughly one-foot length of steel reinforcing bar into the ground at the corner of a bed and slip two clay pots over it: one facing down, the other facing up. The guides will prevent damage to your plants as you drag the hose along the bed.

8. To create perfectly natural markers, write the names of plants (using a permanent marker) on the flat faces of stones of various sizes and place them at or near the base of your plants.

9. Got aphids? You can control them with a strong blast of water from the hose or with insecticidal soap. But here's another suggestion, one that's a lot more fun; get some tape! Wrap a wide strip of tape around your hand, sticky side out, and pat the leaves of plants infested with aphids. Concentrate on the undersides of leaves, because that's where the little buggers like to hide.

10. The next time you boil or steam vegetables, don't pour the water down the drain, use it to water potted patio plants, and you'll be amazed at how the plants respond to the "vegetable soup."

11. Use leftover tea and coffee grounds to acidify the soil of acid-loving plants such as azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias, gardenias and even blueberries. A light sprinkling of about one-quarter of an inch applied once a month will keep the pH of the soil on the acidic side.

12. Use chamomile tea to control damping-off fungus, which often attacks young seedlings quite suddenly. Just add a spot of tea to the soil around the base of seedlings once a week or use it as a foliar spray.

13. If you need an instant table for tea service, look no farther than your collection of clay pots and saucers. Just flip a good-sized pot over, and top it off with a large saucer. And when you've had your share of tea, fill the saucer with water, and your "table" is now a birdbath.

14. The quickest way in the world to dry herbs: just lay a sheet of newspaper on the seat of your car, arrange the herbs in a single layer, then roll up the windows and close the doors. Your herbs will be quickly dried to perfection. What's more, your car will smell great.

Source: http://www.hgtv.com/design/outdoor-design/landscaping-and-hardscaping/14-simple-gardening-tips-and-tricks

Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Butterfly Gardening - Swallowtail, Monarch & Buckeye

Swallowtails enjoy

Monarchs enjoy 

Buckeyes enjoy
Mud puddles

Building a Compost Pile

First, pick a spot.
To start composting, pick the right spot for your compost pile. Look for a convenient section of your backyard that has good drainage and that complies with any applicable codes or regulations.

In some cities, for example, fire regulations prohibit locating a compost area within three feet of any structure. Consult your town or village official for any restrictions.

Select a method.
The easiest way to compost is the pile method. It costs nothing, requires little maintenance, and is useful for large quantities of yard waste (such as autumn leaves).

Just put your yard waste in a pile up to five feet high. In 12 to 18 months, the pile will have reduced in size to about one foot, and the bottom will have turned to compost.
If you prefer, you can use a bin. Compost bins can be purchased at many garden supply and hardware stores, or they can be constructed easily and inexpensively from a variety of materials.

In general, a bin can be any shape, but should be approximately three to four feet in diameter, and of similar height. Leaving the fourth side open or adding a gate permits easy access for adding and removing materials and turning the compost.
Although bins are good for ongoing composting, they’re usually not big enough for large amounts of leaves or grass clippings. To increase your composting capacity, you can put up to three bins, side by side.
The most inexpensive composting bins are made from recycled materials: wooden pallets or leftover snow fencing, for example. But if materials aren’t readily available, they can usually be purchased for less than $25. A pre-made bin can be purchased for as little as $25 to $50.

You’re ready to compost.
Depending on the method you’ve chosen, you can start composting by placing any compostable material (see list under Compost) in a pile, or placing it in your compost bin.
Be sure yard waste other than grass (such as brush or twigs) is less than 4” long and no more than 1/8” thick. Also, it’s best to mix grass clippings with leaves or other garden materials. This hastens the decomposition process.
Once you’ve started a compost pile, all it requires is moisture and oxygen. Turning the materials with a pitchfork once or twice a month increases aeration and moves materials from the outside of the pile to the center, where it can decompose faster and more completely.
As the weeks pass, you can continue adding waste material to your bin or pile. There’s no need to worry when winter comes, the composting process continues, but much more slowly. The, when temperatures rise in the spring, the process picks up speed again.

When your compost is ready, use it as a soil additive in your flower bed or as mulch around the trees or shrubs. If you like a finer compost, use an old metal screen to sift out any waste that hasn’t completely decomposed.
One word of caution: If you use weed killers or insecticides on your lawn, don’t use the resulting compost in your vegetable garden. It’s fine, however, for the rest of your yard.

Many types of yard waste can be composted, including:
• Leaves 
• Grass clippings (as long as they’re mixed with other yard waste) 
• Plant cuttings (unless they’re diseased) 

Other organic materials can be composted too, such as: 
• Sawdust and wood shavings 
• Small amounts of fireplace ash If you desire, you can also compost certain types
of kitchen waste, although we recommend using a closed bin to prevent compost from attracting animals. 

• Fruit and vegetable peels and leftovers 
• Coffee grounds and filters 
• Tea bags 
• Empty egg shells

Do not add: eggs, dairy products, meat scraps, bones, grease, fish, kitty litter or barbecue briquets.

This information is provided from OCRRA Pamphlet “Earth Friendly Ways to Manage Yard Waste”

How to Prune Evergreens

Most varieties of evergreens should be trimmed each year, as they need it, to keep looking their best and to retain their symmetry.

In the pruning of evergreens, it is desirous to retain the natural growing habits as much as possible, merely removing some of the longer, ragged-looking tips to encourage a denser, full growth. Evergreens are seldom trimmed sufficiently. 

Arbor Vitae
Juniper & Arbor Vitae 
These are the “finger group.” Their branches grow out like myriads of tiny green hands. (See sketch 4.) Do not cut the protecting tips like fingers caught in a saw, but neatly disjoint them at the stem points. Arbor Vitae may be sheared severely, and thrive best if pruned in this manner. Junipers often lose their attractive appearance if sheared too heavily. For unique effects with spreading evergreens planted in rockeries or rock walls, weird shapes are often desirable to obtain attractive effects. (See sketch 10.) By pruning off some of the side branches, you may encourage them to trail in varying directions. Arbor Vitae make beautiful evergreen hedges, although they require consistent shearing and shaping each summer to make them compact and uniform. 

Douglas Fir
Fir and Spruce
These are the “Christmas Tree” groups which appear best as a perfect cone of soft masses of needles not too obviously pruned. All branches projecting beyond the natural pyramid nature should be cut back into line, and prune the side growth to overcome patchiness and encourage dense growth. In pruning these varieties you are dealing with the buds which form the new growth. On each branch tip there is a cluster of buds, usually dominated by a large central bud. (See sketch 9.) On the branches where bushiness is desired, remove the central bud carefully with the thumb and forefinger. The remaining buds will branch out making the tree dense and compact. If the branch is to continue in a straight line, the central bud must be carefully preserved. The topmost straightest point of the tree is the central leader. This bud must be saved, and if damaged or blighted, two leaders will form which will spoil the appearance of the tree. (See sketch 6.) Should this happen through some catastrophe, tie a brace to the most vigorous side branch and tie into an upright position with soft twine or cloth strips. (See sketch 7.)

Hemlock and Taxus (Yews)
Taxus Baccata
These are the “fern-like groups” and the most graceful of all evergreens, with long sweeping branches. Taxus usually require shortening of the long shoots they put forth in the early spring to keep them from becoming too open. (See sketch 8.) Hemlocks require some trimming, also, especially in shady locations. Do not shear with hedge shears, but rather remove the longest shoots at the branch base. (See sketch 5.)

The pine is a “rugged individual.” Seldom does it require shearing, and pruning destroys its individual characteristics. Like the Fir and Spruce, the central leader should be preserved and retained by tying to a brace if it becomes destroyed. The Mugho Pine (dwarf, globe shaped) is one exception. Prune this tree as you would a Juniper to keep it tight and symmetrical, by cutting back the new growth to one-half its length each sum- mer. If left untrimmed, it becomes ragged.

Special Plants for Special Conditions: Heavy Clay Soils

Plants that will tolerate heavy clay soils:

Swamp (Red Maple) 

Silver Maple 




Spirea (most)

Bayberry (most)


Other excellent choices: 
Viburnum (some)