Fruit Tree Care Guide

Pollination and Fruit Set:

Fruiting trees require pollination and seed development in order for fruit set to occur. Most fruits, including apples, sweet cherries, pears, plums and apricots, require cross pollination from another cultivar. Some varieties are self-pollinating, but will have improved pollination when there are multiple cultivars available. Also, apples cannot pollinate pears, and pears cannot pollinate plums, pollinators must be from the same fruit type.

Why won’t your established fruit trees set fruit? There are many possible reasons for lack of fruit set, including:

• Late spring frost 

• Heavy rains during bloom interfering with pollen distribution and insect activity 

• Disease

• Poor plant nutrition 

• Poor site conditions 

• Lack of a compatible cultivar for cross pollination 

Apples: to guarantee adequate cross pollination, plant at least three different cultivars.

Where and How to Plant Your Fruit Tree: Light: 

Plant your fruit tree in a location where it will receive at least a half day of full sun. 

Soils: Fruit trees prefer well drained fertile soil. If you have heavy clay soil, work in 1/2 peat/compost, this will help improve drainage. You can build a mound or berm with trucked-in top soil in which to plant your trees. Planting with MYKE Mycorrhizae* will stimulate the growth of new roots and increase nutrient and water absorption from the soil, improving growth rate, flower/fruit production and drought tolerance.

Spacing: All of our fruit trees are dwarf or semi-drawf. Plant them a minimum of 15 feet apart, maximum of 100 feet apart. This spacing eliminates competition for the sun, and provides good air circulation, which helps to reduce insect pests and diseases.

Fertilizing: A couple of weeks after planting, fertilize your fruit trees using Tree Tone*. Lightly scratch the granular fertilizer into the soil, in a two- foot radius around the trunk. Avoid getting the fertilizer directly against the trunk.

Care and Maintenance:

Fruit bearing trees are susceptible to a variety of pests and diseases. The following suggestions can help you manage your fruit plantings with fewer pest/disease issues.

• Inspect your fruit trees (weekly). 

• Prune out dead twigs and branches during the dormant season. 

• Rake up and destroy leaves/diseased fruit after harvest. 

• Use dormant oil spray* (also known as Horticultural Oil/Four Season Oil) in late winter/early spring (late Feb/early March), when temperatures are above 50° F. Dormant oil controls the egg and larval stages of many insects. It will not work on adult insects. 

• To avoid fungal diseases, spray your fruit trees with an all purpose fungicide such as Fungonil* at bud break. Bud break is when you see up to 1/2 inch of green on the buds. Continue to spray on a monthly basis during the grow- ing season. Stop fungicide sprays 3 weeks prior to harvesting.

Pruning:

• Annual pruning keeps trees productive. Apple, pear and cherry trees are best trained to a central leader. Peach, plum and apricot trees should be trained into a vase shape (no central leader).

• If your fruit tree sets fruit the first year, pick off the immature fruit, allowing the energy to go into the root and vegetative growth.

• Apples and Pears: prune when they are dormant.

• Cherries: prune when the weather is hot (to avoid bacterial diseases that are present in cool dry weather)

• Peaches and Apricots: prune in early spring, right after the last frost

• Plums: Plums are aggressive growers, so prune both in winter while they are dormant and also in summer to help contain their vigorous growth.

• For additional information about pruning, go to www.hollybrookorchards.com

Vole and Deer Protection:

• Protect your tree trunks from damage by wrap- ping them with trunk protectors.* Make sure the trunk protector is adequately perforated for air circulation and does not directly touch the bark.

• Keep deer from eating the tender branches of newly planted fruit trees by using Liquid Fence.*

Harvesting: 

• Allow fruit to ripen on the tree if you wish to attain the fullest flavor. 

• If you are planning to store your apples or pears, harvest before they are fully ripe. 

• Only store fruit that is in excellent condition, never any diseased or damaged fruit.

Basics of Vegetable Gardening

Preparing the Soil

• Fertile, well-drained soil is necessary for a successful vegetable garden. The exact type of soil is not as important as:

• Good drainage 
• Well-supplied organic matter 
• Reasonably free of stones 
• Moisture retentive

• If your garden has been used in past years, simply dig in additional organic material and fertilizers (compost or manure and any good commercial complete plant food — follow the label directions to apply).

• If using an unused plot, prepare soil the pre- ceding fall. Work in some organic material. Different types of vegetables require varying degrees of soil acidity. The pH requirements of different garden vegetables will determine what steps must be taken to amend the soil. Be sure the garden will receive at least 6 hours of full sun each day.

• Once soil structure, fertility and pH have been established, the soil should be tilled one last time and raked smooth.

Planting Tips

• Using your garden layout map, use stakes to mark out where different rows will be planted.

• Build trellises or use stout stakes for climbing plants.

• Create mounds for vining plants such as cucumbers, pumpkins, melons, etc.

• Establish pathways early. 

• Sow your seeds or bedding plants at the recommended planting depths and spacing requirements.

Sowing the Seeds

• Stretch a string between two stakes to mark the row or use a straight piece of lumber as a guide.

• Open a “V”-shaped furrow with the corner of a hoe.

• Set the depth to the requirement on the seed package.

• Tap the package lightly with your finger as you move down the row, distributing the seed evenly.

• Larger seeds may be placed individually. 

• Plant extra seeds in each row to allow for failed germination and for thinning. 

• Cover the seeds with fine soil. 

• Firm the soil over the seeds to insure good soil contact. 

• Water thoroughly using a gentle spray. 

• Keep the soil moist until seedlings are up. 

• Once seedlings have developed their second and third set of true leaves, thin as needed, keeping the strongest plants.

Started Plants

• Dig a small hole slightly wider and deeper that the root ball of the plant.

• Water the plant thoroughly prior to planting to lessen shock.

• Gently tap the pot or squeeze the cell to loos- en the roots and remove the new plant.

• Loosen outer roots. 

• Set the plant into the hole slightly deeper than what it was growing in the pot. 

• Firm the soil around the plant.

• Water well.

Other Tips

• Give plants extra water during dry periods. Most vegetables benefit from an inch or more of water each week, especially when they are fruiting.

• Mulch between the rows to control weeds and to conserve moisture in the soil.

• Use a complete fertilizer, such as Plant Tone, Neptune’s Harvest, or Miracle Gro. Follow the label directions for the amount to use and the frequency of application. Be vigilant during the growing season against insects and disease. Discovering a bug or disease problem early makes it easier to take appropriate action and eliminate the pests. Follow all manufactures’ recommendations on pesticides.

• Weed regularly, as weeds rob the vegetables of water, light, food and root space, and can harbor disease and insects.

• Recycle spent plant and other vegetable matter into a compost pile once you have harvested your crop. Vegetable matter containing disease organisms should not be composted.

We're growing thousands of #ProvenWinters for our customers. Let's grow green together. #landscape #StreetSmartGardener

We're growing thousands of #ProvenWinters for our customers. Let's grow green together. #landscape #StreetSmartGardener

www.wwnursery.com

Gardening in the Shade: Perennials

Perennials that love shade:

*light shade or part shade only

Aconitum (Monkshood) 

Ajuga (Bugleweed) 

Alchemilla (Lady’s Mantle) 

*Anemone

Aquilegia (Columbine) 

Aruncus (Goatsbeard) 

*Astilbe 

Brunnera

Carex

Ceratostigma (Leadwort)

*Chelone (Pink Turtlehead)

Cimicifuga (Black Snakeroot, Bug- bane)

Convallaria (Lily of the Valley) 

Corydalis Dicentra (Bleeding Heart) 

*Digitalis (Foxglove) 

*Doronicum (Leopardsbane) 

Epimedium (Barrenwort) 

Ferns

*Filipendula (Meadowsweet)

Galium (Sweet Woodruff)

*Geranium (Cranesbill)

Hakonechloa (Japanese Forest Grass)

*Helleborus (Lenten Rose, Christmas Rose)

*Hemerocallis (Daylily)

*Heucherella (Frosted Violet, Regina, Palace Purple, Silver Scrolls)

Heucherella (Foamy Bells)

Hosta

*Houttuynia (Chameleon Plant)

Kirengeshoma (Yellow Waxbells)

Lamiastrum (Golden Nettle, Archangel Plant)

Lamium (Deadnettle) 

Ligularia 

Liriope 

*Myosotis (Forget-Me-Not) 

Persicaria

Phlox divaricata (Woodland Phlox) 

Phlox stolonifera 

*Platycoson (Balloon Flower) 

*Polemonium (Jacob’s Ladder) 

Primula (Primrose)

Pulmonaria (Lungwort) 

Rodgersia (Roger’s Flower) 

*Rudbeckia (Black-eyed Susan) 

Sagina (Irish Moss, Scotch Moss) 

Spigelia (Indian Pink) 

Polygonatum (Solomon’s Seal) 

*Thalictrum (Meadow Rue) 

Tiarella (Foam Flower) 

*Tradescantia (Spiderwort) 

Trisyrtis (Toad Lily) 

Viola

Landscape Retaining Wall Basics

A retaining wall is intended to hold back soil when there is a drastic change in elevation. Often retaining walls are used to terrace yards that originally had a steep slope. Additionally, retaining walls can help create usable outdoor space as well as control erosion. Low retaining walls are frequently used as planting beds and can add interest to an otherwise flat yard.

If you are considering hiring someone to build a landscape retaining wall on your property you'll want to have a basic understanding of what goes into proper retaining wall design. This way you'll be sure to get a quality wall that will last for years without problems. An improperly built retaining wall may bulge, crack or lean, creating an unsightly eyesore and a headache for you.

1. BaseFirst, a retaining wall must be built on a suitable base. Block manufacturers as well as experienced contractors and engineers stress the importance of starting with a good base. The base of a retaining wall should be set below ground level. The taller a wall is, the further below ground level it should be set. Crucial for supporting the rest of the wall, a good base is made of compacted soil and at least a six inch layer of compacted sand and gravel.
2. BackfillSecond, a retaining wall must have properly compacted backfill. Backfill refers to the dirt behind the wall. In order to provide proper drainage, at least 12 inches of granular backfill (gravel or a similar aggregate) should be installed directly behind the wall. Compacted native soil can be used to backfill the rest of the space behind the wall. If you intend to do landscaping behind the wall, a 6+ inch layer of native soil should also be placed over the gravel fill.
3. DrainageThird, since most retaining walls are impervious, which means water cannot pass through the wall itself, efficient drainage is crucial. When drainage goes unaddressed hydrostatic pressure will build up behind the wall and cause damage such as bulging or cracking. There are a number of ways to ensure proper drainage of water from behind a retaining wall. First, is to make sure your landscaping contractor backfills at least a foot of space behind the wall with gravel. Second, is having a perforated pipe installed along the inside, or backfilled, bottom of the wall. And third, is to ask if weep holes will be needed to allow water to drain through the wall.
4. HeightFourth, it's important to know that the height of a retaining wall determines the load it can bear and how much extra reinforcement will be necessary. Typically, residential retaining walls are built between 3 and 4 feet high. This height provides excellent strength without requiring anchors, cantilevers or other additional reinforcements. If your property requires a higher wall you have two options: you can have the wall specially designed by an engineer or you can use a series of 3-4 foot walls to create a terraced effect.

Retaining Wall Design Ideas:

• Incorporate a fountain or water feature into your retaining wall
• Integrate an outdoor fireplace into your retaining wall design
• Install landscape lighting in your retaining wall
• Include built-in bench seating in your retaining wall
• Don't forget steps if you plan to access the area above the wall
• For a finished look, have wall caps installed

Source: http://www.landscapingnetwork.com/walls/retaining.html

Hydrangea Families

Hydrangea macrophylla: Of the various types of hydrangeas, this is the most well known. This group is also known as the big leaf hydrangea and has flowers of one of two forms, mophead or lace cap. The mopheads are ball-shaped and the lacecaps are plate-like. These varieties tend to be the hardiest in wind and will accept sun or shade provided there is enough moisture. Because of their large leaves and flower heads, these plants require a large amount of water, and have even been known to tolerate moist conditions. The flowers on these plants range from white to pink to blue. Flower color is usually depen- dent on soil acidity. They tend to mature to around 4 feet. Prune in winter lightly overall but be sure to retain as many of the fat flower buds as possible. Protect early emerging flower buds from frost. Zones 5 & 6.

Eg. Endless Summer—mophead Lady in Red—lacecap

Hydrangea serrata: This group has leaves with a serrated edge like a knife. They are very similar in their growth and habit to Hydrangea macrophylla, but are not as tolerant to adverse conditions. This group prefers a shady to morning sun location out of the wind. They tend to mature to around 3 feet. Pruning is the same as for the macrophylla group. Zones 5 & 6.

Eg. Blue Bird—lacecap

Hydrangea arborescens: A very hardy native that is tolerant of drought once established. Some protection from wind is beneficial, as the white blossoms are so large that they may be damaged. Tends to mature between 4 and 5 feet. Can be pruned to the ground for winter. Zone 3.

Eg. Annabelle—Snowball

Hydrangea paniculata: Tolerates extreme cold but not wind. The large white-to-pink blossoms on these plants can be easily broken in high winds. These are large plants, maturing up to 15 feet. Selec- tive winter pruning can increase the bloom size for these plants.

Hydrangea quercifolia: Also known as the oak leaf hydrangea. Large leaves achieve their best fall color when planted in full sun. These plants are not tolerant of high winds, so choose a protected site. Tend to mature around 5 feet. Prune in winter. Zones 5 & 6.

Hydrangea anomala subsp. Petiolaris: Also known as climbing hydrangea. This vining member of the hydrangea family has a lacecap-type flower. It grows as tall as it is allowed (supported by clinging roots), and then flowers at the top of the vine. Prun- ing is not usually necessary. Zone 4.

Schizophragma hydrangeoides: A relative to hydrangeas known as the Japanese Hydrangea, it is also a climber. These flower best in full sun with a lacecap-type flower. Pruning is not usually necessary. Zone 5.

Hydrangea Care

Growth: Hydrangeas are relatively non-finicky plants. They will grow in a multitude of soil conditions including clay, stony or sandy that are either alkaline or acidic. Naturally, hydrangeas are found in either full sun or in dappled shade provided by deciduous trees. Deep shade, like that provided by dense evergreens, tends to lead to unthrifty plants. It should be noted that hydrangeas require ample moisture and will perform poorly if it is not provided in either condition. Scorch is not an uncommon problem for plants in a sunny, dry position.

Flowering: A summer-flowering plant, the flower heads usually consist of a mix of sterile and non-sterile flowers. Most flowers change color when they age. The sterile flowers don’t fade and go to seed, which is the reason for their long blossoming time. Flower color for macrophylla and serrata hydrangea types tend to be influenced by soil acidity.

Feeding: It is beneficial for hydrangeas to receive a spring feeding with a balanced fertilizer high in nitrogen and a top dressing of compost. When adjusting pH to influence bloom color towards blue, use a fertilizer high in nitrogen and potash, and low in phosphates. Avoid superphosphates as they tend towards alkalinity. Gar- den sulfur is one of the best additives for increasing soil acidity. 

When adjusting pH to influence bloom color towards pink/red, use a fertilizer with high phosphorus. Dolomite lime is one of the best additives for decreasing soil acidity. For the above pH adjustments, apply 1/3 of the annual amount 3x a year so as not to burn the roots. Be persistent; it may take up to 3 years for a hydrangea to settle into its permanent color.

Pruning: As a group, hydrangeas are unique in that the best time to prune them is during winter. Each group has slightly different requirements, but in general remove dead and diseased branches, thin weak stems and reduce the height as desired. Selective pruning has the added benefit of increasing the quality and size of the flowers.

*In the fall, after the plants have gone dormant, certain varieties require 12 inches of mulch

for winter protection directly over the center of the plant. Most of these varieties are found in the macrophylla and serrata families. Ask your nursery professional for further

assistance. 

Disease and pests: Hydrangeas are relatively pest-free. Slugs and snails may occasionally bother the macrophylla types; control with slug bait. Mildew could be a problem in wet, humid summers; apply a fungicide to control it.