Showing posts with label fertilizer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fertilizer. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 16, 2015

10 Beginning Gardener Mistakes to Avoid


Gardening Mistake No. 1: Starting Out Too Big
It’s difficult to resist those tempting photos of perfectly ripe vegetables and fruits in seed and nursery catalogs. It’s all too easy to order more vegetable varieties than your garden space and time will permit. Planting too large a garden is a mistake that can place too heavy a workload on a gardener and lead to frustration and burnout.

A better gardening strategy is to start small in the first year and plant only a few of your favorite veggies. This will allow you more gardening success and a greater feeling of accomplishment. In succeeding years, as practice builds your gardening skills, you can increase the size of your garden each planting season.

Gardening Mistake No. 2: Not Properly Preparing the Soil
Without good soil, no vegetable garden can thrive. Any preparation that the soil needs must be done before planting. Once those seeds begin to establish a root system, the soil cannot be disturbed without endangering the tender, young plants.

Prepare the soil as early in spring as you can work it without creating mud pies. Let the soil rest until the weather is warm enough to sprout seeds and support the growth of young plants. Then you can plant your vegetable garden and watch it spring to life.

Gardening Mistake No. 3: Ignoring Light Requirements
Vegetable plants need sunlight to grow properly and process soil and water nutrients. When choosing your garden spot, make sure that the area gets enough sun to grow the plants you want to put there. Some plants require more sun than others, and those light requirements must be honored when planting your garden.

Check planting recommendations on seed packets before you decide where to plant each seed variety. Some plants need full sun; other plants do well in partial shade. The directions on seed packets will tell you. Plan your vegetable garden before you plant, giving full-sun spots to veggies with the greatest sunlight requirements.

Gardening Mistake No. 4: Over- or Underfertilizing
Too much, too little or the wrong type or timing of fertilizer will not allow your garden plants to produce healthy, vigorous growth. For example, all plants require nitrogen, and high-nitrogen fertilizer will produce vigorous top growth—which is what you want for leafy green vegetables like chard, cabbage and lettuce. That same amount of nitrogen, however, will create such vigorous top growth that it can hold back ripening.

Excess nitrogen can have a similar effect on root vegetables. Robert Thomas of Tonasket, Wash., warns enthusiastic new gardeners: "Please, go easy on that wonderfully rich manure and homemade compost where you are going to plant your potatoes.” Manure and compost are such rich sources of nitrogen that putting too much on a potato patch can cause excessive top growth and delay the development of the edible tubers.

Gardening Mistake No. 5: Over- or Underwatering
Plants need water to metabolize nutrients and grow, but different types of vegetable plants need different amounts of water. Too little water will cause plants to dry up and wilt. Once seriously wilted, most plants will not recover, even if watered, so do your best to keep your vegetable plants from wilting. Too much water can rot the root system, and only healthy roots can absorb nutrients from the soil and hold the plant upright. Once rot afflicts the root system, the plant is done for.

Most vegetable plants prefer a good, deep watering one to three times each week. If you water too shallowly, the roots will grow near the surface instead of downward to seek water.

"If you don’t water your vegetable garden deeply and thoroughly, you might end up with shallow roots that cannot tolerate any drought at all," warns Rebekah James Pless of Spencer, N.C.

When you water your vegetable garden, ensure that the roots receive moisture. If you don’t know whether you’re watering deeply enough, check soil moisture by inserting the probe of a moisture gauge to the depth of the plant’s roots.

Gardening Mistake No. 7: Planting Bulbs Upside-down
Onions, garlic and other bulbs have a root-growing end and a stem-growing end. Make sure that you know which is which before you plant these seeds.

Planting bulbs wrong-end up will cause delayed growth as the root and top try to find the right direction to grow. This can use so much of the energy stored in the bulb that by the time the sprout reaches sunlight, the plant is weak and will fail to thrive. In most cases, the top of a bulb comes to more of a point than the bottom, so it’s not too difficult to tell which end should be up when planting.

Gardening Mistake No 8: Planting Too Closely—and Not Thinning
If you plant your seeds or transplants too closely, you’ll create too much competition for the nutrients in sunlight, soil and water. Seed packet instructions include advice on plant spacing, but it’s tempting to ignore it because seeds seem so tiny when you’re planting a patch of bare soil. It’s difficult to imagine how much space the plants that sprout from those seeds will need once they start to grow.

Not every seed planted will germinate and not every sprout will survive, so it’s OK to plant seeds closer than the spacing needed by mature vegetable plants. It’s important to thin the patch or row when plants are a few inches tall, removing enough of the seedlings to make room for the remaining plants to grow. Many vegetable plant thinnings are edible — young carrots and greens are tender and delicious—so enjoy your thinnings in an early-spring salad. Vegetable plant thinnings also can be left on the soil around remaining plants to serve as light mulch.

Gardening Mistake No. 9: Letting Weeds Grow Too Large
The best time to pull a weed is when it’s tiny and its root system is small. Pulling weeds at that stage of growth won’t disrupt the roots of your vegetable plants.

The longer you let a weed grow, the stronger a root system it will develop and the more nutrients it will steal from your vegetable plants. Keep weed growth to a minimum by mulching soil around your vegetable plants or disturbing the surface of the soil by regularly hoeing between your plants.

Gardening Mistake No. 10: Overmulching 
Mulch is a good thing, but too much of a good thing usually isn’t. Mulching with organic matter—like straw, dry leaves or grass clippings—helps keep weeds from sprouting, retains moisture in the soil, keeps the root zone cool and provides nutrients for the plants as the mulch decays.

A light mulch is fine after planting, but don’t mulch too deeply or seed sprouts might not be able to push through into the sunlight. To retain soil moisture and discourage weeds, gently add more mulch as the plants grow. After mulching, draw the mulch back 1 inch or so from the stems of the young plants so it doesn’t create too much heat as it decomposes or trap dampness against the stem and cause rot.

Take special care when using green mulches like fresh grass clippings, as these materials produce heat while decomposing, which can harm the plant and even kill it. Green mulches are very rich in nitrogen, which they release as they decompose. This nitrogen boost will fuel top growth in vegetable plants, which you might not desire.

Don’t use grass hay as mulch. It often contains seeds of weeds that can spread rapidly and become very difficult to remove once they’ve established themselves in a vegetable garden. Wheat straw contains fewer weed seeds, so it is usually a safer mulch than hay.
A lot of gardening questions become common sense to a gardener after a few seasons of experience. There’s a lot to learn along the way, but you will learn how to avoid a bunch of common gardening mistakes.


Planting Trees & Shrubs


Choose the right spot. Does the plant need sun? Shade? Wind protection?
1. Dig the right hole! Dig the hole up to 50% wider than the root ball width and only the depth of the root ball. When the plant is in the hole the top of the ball or root system should be slightly above ground level.

2. Base. The base or bottom of the hole should be undisturbed soil to support the root ball and reduce settling.
3. Burlap covered root balls should not be disturbed. Put ball in prepared hole. Remove twine from top of ball, pull burlap away from top. Leave the wire basket in place so root ball will not be injured. Bend down the edges of the basket below soil line.
4. For container-grown plants, remove the pot and slice the roots 1/2 inch deep, several times around from top to bottom of root system.
5. Backfill. Using a mixture of the topsoil from the hole, add 25% of a soil amendment such as organic compost. Shovel the mixture around the roots. Do not heap soil around the trunk of the plants. Tamp lightly to remove air pockets. Make a shallow rim around the root ball to prevent water runoff.
6. Water thoroughly. Use a how and turn water pressure down low and allow the water to slowly run through the soil of the new planting, deep into the root system. Mix root stimulator, such as Starter Plus, in a watering can and apply around root zone.
Regular watering is essential to the survival of the plant. New plantings need to receive a thorough watering several times a week, soaking the entire root system. This should occur for four to six weeks, then weekly thereafter. However, be careful not to overwater the plant. Check the soil before and after watering.
7. Apply mulch at a depth of two to three inches around the base of the plant. Keep mulch away from the trunk.
8. There is no need to fertilize until the follow- ing spring. Use a slow-release fertilizer such as Osmocote, Tree-Tone or Jobes spikes. Evergreens prefer an acid plant food such as Holly-tone or Miracid.

Special planting instructions for Rhododendrons and Yews: Plant them high! Rhododendrons and yews do not tolerate wet soil and should be planted only in well-drained soil. to keep the roots drier, they should be planted with up to 1/4 of the root ball depth above the existing soil level. If wrapped in burlap, carefully cut away as much of the burlap as possible, once placed in the hole.

FAQs
What is the drip line?
The drip line is where the water drips from the outermost edge of the plant’s canopy.
My tree is not producing leaves. Is it dead?
Trees and shrubs have different dormant periods and different growth periods. Viability is determined by the presence or absence of green tissue under the bark.
How can I tell if I am watering my tree too much or too little? Slow drip watering is best for newly planted materials. Turn hose on with 1/4” stream of water running at the base of the plant. water trees for 1/2 hour and shrubs for 15 minutes. Water 1–3 times per week, as needed (with consideration to natural rainfall). Use a moisture meter to determine how moist the soil is prior to watering.
What is the scratch test?
Take a sharp object and scratch a small area of surface bark off to determine if there is healthy tissue (usually green) beneath the bark.

Basics of Vegetable Gardening



Preparing the Soil
• Fertile, well-drained soil is necessary for a successful vegetable garden. The exact type of soil is not as important as:

  • Good drainage 
  • Well-supplied organic matter 
  • Reasonably free of stones 
  • Moisture retentive
• If your garden has been used in past years, simply dig in additional organic material and fertilizers (compost or manure and any good commercial complete plant food — follow the label directions to apply).
• If using an unused plot, prepare soil the pre- ceding fall. Work in some organic material. Different types of vegetables require varying degrees of soil acidity. The pH requirements of different garden vegetables will determine what steps must be taken to amend the soil. Be sure the garden will receive at least 6 hours of full sun each day.
• Once soil structure, fertility and pH have been established, the soil should be tilled one last time and raked smooth.

Planting Tips
• Using your garden layout map, use stakes to mark out where different rows will be planted.
• Build trellises or use stout stakes for climbing plants.
• Create mounds for vining plants such as cucumbers, pumpkins, melons, etc.
• Establish pathways early. 
• Sow your seeds or bedding plants at the recommended planting depths and spacing requirements.

Sowing the Seeds
• Stretch a string between two stakes to mark the row or use a straight piece of lumber as a guide.
• Open a “V”-shaped furrow with the corner of a hoe.
• Set the depth to the requirement on the seed package.
• Tap the package lightly with your finger as you move down the row, distributing the seed evenly.
• Larger seeds may be placed individually. 
• Plant extra seeds in each row to allow for failed germination and for thinning. 
• Cover the seeds with fine soil. 
• Firm the soil over the seeds to insure good soil contact. 
• Water thoroughly using a gentle spray. 
• Keep the soil moist until seedlings are up. 
• Once seedlings have developed their second and third set of true leaves, thin as needed, keeping the strongest plants.

Started Plants
• Dig a small hole slightly wider and deeper that the root ball of the plant.
• Water the plant thoroughly prior to planting to lessen shock.
• Gently tap the pot or squeeze the cell to loos- en the roots and remove the new plant.
• Loosen outer roots. 
• Set the plant into the hole slightly deeper than what it was growing in the pot. 
• Firm the soil around the plant.
• Water well.

Other Tips
• Give plants extra water during dry periods. Most vegetables benefit from an inch or more of water each week, especially when they are fruiting.
• Mulch between the rows to control weeds and to conserve moisture in the soil.
• Use a complete fertilizer, such as Plant Tone, Neptune’s Harvest, or Miracle Gro. Follow the label directions for the amount to use and the frequency of application. Be vigilant during the growing season against insects and disease. Discovering a bug or disease problem early makes it easier to take appropriate action and eliminate the pests. Follow all manufactures’ recommendations on pesticides.
• Weed regularly, as weeds rob the vegetables of water, light, food and root space, and can harbor disease and insects.
• Recycle spent plant and other vegetable matter into a compost pile once you have harvested your crop. Vegetable matter containing disease organisms should not be composted.

Wednesday, June 3, 2015

How to Start Your Own Home Orchard


Location, Location, Location
Choose a sunny area with well-drained, fertile soil. High-clay soils will benefit from an addition of compost at the time of planting; add 1/3 compost to 2/3 native soil.

Self-Pollinating or Not?
Fruit set is the end result of flower pollination, which is usually facilitated by bees. When deciding on trees for your yard, keep in mind some varieties need pollen from another variety. Self-pollinating varieties do not need a second variety for fruit to set.

Pollinator Requirements for W&W Fruit Trees:
Apple—In general all varieties need another variety for pollination.
Pear—All varieties need another variety for pollination.
Cherry—Most are self-pollinating Peach—All are self-pollinating

Making Room for Your Orchard
The trees offered at W&W are either dwarf (8–10’) or semi-dwarf (12–15’). In general, these trees should be planted around 12–14’ apart, keeping like varieties together (i.e., apples with apples). When planting additional rows, try to keep them separated by approximately 20’.

Pruning
Due to their small size, little is usually needed in the home orchard. When the tree is young:
1. Remove any branches crossing over another that touch or will create an injury.
2. Thin out inward growing branches 3. Remove anything broken. 4. Lightly trimming off the tips on larger branches will encourage branching. Shaping comes later. In the first years of growth, it is beneficial to remove most of the fruit set. This ensures energy is directed towards establishing a healthy, strong root system. As trees mature, careful pruning will help to shape them. Pear, apple and cherry trees are usually trained to one central leader in the home orchard. Peaches are trained into a broad vase shape without a central leader. At any time during your tree’s life you should repeat steps 1, 2 & 3 from above. Reduce suckers and water sprouts. Apple and pear trees can be pruned any time the tree is dormant. Peach, cherry and plum trees should be pruned when in blossom. (Perennial Canker, a fungus, infects open wounds in cool weather.)

Fertilization
A compost addition is beneficial when planting. Wait 30 days after planting to add fertilizer. A general fertilizer can then be worked into the top 1” of soil about 1 1/2–2” from the tree trunk.

Watering
During the first growing season, new trees will benefit from a deep soak once a week if there has been no rain. Established trees should be watered in times of drought.

Additional Care
Spraying: To provide disease and insect protection, you need several spray combinations that have been developed. Ask a Garden Center Professional for a program that works for you. Be sure to read labels for proper application directions.

Physical Barriers
Rabbits, voles, field mice and deer may dine on your trees in the winter. Possible protection in the form of tree wraps, fencing and bitter-tasting sprays may be an option.

*Tree Management Calendars are available upon request at our Garden Center.