Poinsettia Care - Shopping Tips

Here are some items to consider while making your poinsettia selection:

Avoid plants with foliage that is beginning to yellow. The actual flowers of the poinsettia are the golden yellow clusters (cyathia) in the center of the colored bracts. The colored bracts are actually the plant’s leaves that change color to attract pollinators. When you choose your poinsettia, make sure the plant you choose still has the bright golden yellow clusters in the center.

Avoid purchasing poinsettias that have been left in the plastic wrapping. This could cause the leaves to yellow and drop before the holiday season is over. 

Seen at the 4th Best Christmas light display in the country.

A protective sleeve should be placed on the plant to shelter it from cold temperatures on its way from the store to home. The poinsettia should be taken home and unwrapped as soon as possible. Leaving the plant in an unheated car while you continue to shop will cause cold injury. 

Prevent Moss From Growing On Your Roof!

What is Moss?

Moss is a plant species that grows really well in moist cool areas. There are many different species of moss. Some common characteristics among these species are that moss does not have flowers or seeds, they must have a damp environment to grow in because they do not have any root system to secure water, and they are usually extremely green with tiny leafs.

Why is Moss on The Roof Bad?

As the moss thickens and grows on an asphalt shingle roof it can raise the shingles up (much like a jack under a car). When the shingles get risen it allows water to go under the shingles causing the decking to rot and causing the roof to leak. The raised shingles also pose problems when heavy winds are present because they will catch the wind like a sail and this can cause shingles to be torn/blown off the roof.

A moss buildup on the roof causes more debris to get trapped on the roof. This debris promotes water buildup which makes the roof at risk of much more rotting and leaking.
Moss can actually damage the asphalt shingle components leaving it to break down faster.

How to Prevent Moss

Remove the Shade

Because moss grows well in shaded areas one way to control moss/remove it from roofs or other areas is to remove its shade. This can be done by removing trees, trimming tree branches to allow more sun to penetrate, or remove bushes and other type of plant life that may be blocking the sun.

This method of moss prevention and removal is highly effective but remember that it may be ineffective if the weather is often overcast and cloudy.

How NOT to Get Rid of Moss

Roofs are an investment that must be safe guarded. That being said, we want to give you some “what not to do” tips when trying to remove moss off of your roof.

1. Do not pressure wash the moss off

By using a pressure washer to remove the moss you are going to dramatically reduce the life of your roof. How? The high powered water will remove the asphalt shingle granules which help protect the shingles and ensure a longer life span.

2. Be careful with using acids to remove moss. 

If your acidic mixture is too strong or stays on the roof too long, it can eat away at the shingles. If your roof cleaning solution has not been tested previously, make sure you test it on some spare shingles before applying it to your roof.

3. Do not scrape the moss off of the roof. 

This can rip, crack, and break the asphalt shingles themselves.

4. If any water is used to remove the moss, do not spray the water at an upward angle. 

If you do, this can cause water to go under the shingles and leak into the house or rot the wood decking of the roof.

Source: http://roofpedia.com/removing-moss-on-roofs/

Winterizing Trees & Shrubs

Most shrubs and trees require no special preparation for winter, aside from making sure they are watered and old flower heads are removed.

Trees with smooth bark will benefit from tree wrap. Starting at the base of the tree, wrap the trunk to the lowest branch, overlapping each layer by 1/3. Secure at the top with duct tape or twine. Remove the tree wrap by the end of April.

Broadleaf evergreens, such as Holly and Rhododendron, can be sprayed with Wilt Pruf to prevent dissecation. Apply late in the season while temperatures are still above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. You can reapply mid-winter if there is a brief warm spell. Wilt Pruf can also by sprayed on any plant, with or without leaves, that is in a very windy location. Use with caution on plants with very fine needles (Hemlock, Arborvitae, Juniper); follow the product’s instructions on the label.

Plants sensitive to wind or sunburn can also be wrapped with burlap. Wrap in late fall and secure with twine or staples. Burlap can also be used to protect plants from deer and rabbits.

A-frame shrub protectors can be placed over plants that are under the drip line of your roof to protect them from snow or ice damage. They will also provide some protection from wind and sun.

Spray-on deer and rabbit repellants can be applied mid- to late fall. Follow the product’s instructions on the label for effective coverage.

A small group of shrubs require special winter care: Buddleia (Butterfly Bush), Caryopteris, Vitex (Chaste Tree), Scotch Broom, Big Leaf Hydrangeas (pink or blue flowering varieties). After the leaves have fallen from these plants, apply 12–18” at this time. Caryopteris, Scotch Broom and Hydrangeas can be cut back to green growth in the spring. The mulch should be removed in spring as the temperature warms.

The following plants are slow to start growing in the spring, so a little patience is required: Butterfly Bush, Caryopteris, Chaste Tree, Ornamental Grasses, Hardy Hibiscus.

Fruit Tree Care Guide

Pollination and Fruit Set:

Fruiting trees require pollination and seed development in order for fruit set to occur. Most fruits, including apples, sweet cherries, pears, plums and apricots, require cross pollination from another cultivar. Some varieties are self-pollinating, but will have improved pollination when there are multiple cultivars available. Also, apples cannot pollinate pears, and pears cannot pollinate plums, pollinators must be from the same fruit type.

Why won’t your established fruit trees set fruit? There are many possible reasons for lack of fruit set, including:

• Late spring frost 

• Heavy rains during bloom interfering with pollen distribution and insect activity 

• Disease

• Poor plant nutrition 

• Poor site conditions 

• Lack of a compatible cultivar for cross pollination 

Apples: to guarantee adequate cross pollination, plant at least three different cultivars.

Where and How to Plant Your Fruit Tree: Light: 

Plant your fruit tree in a location where it will receive at least a half day of full sun. 

Soils: Fruit trees prefer well drained fertile soil. If you have heavy clay soil, work in 1/2 peat/compost, this will help improve drainage. You can build a mound or berm with trucked-in top soil in which to plant your trees. Planting with MYKE Mycorrhizae* will stimulate the growth of new roots and increase nutrient and water absorption from the soil, improving growth rate, flower/fruit production and drought tolerance.

Spacing: All of our fruit trees are dwarf or semi-drawf. Plant them a minimum of 15 feet apart, maximum of 100 feet apart. This spacing eliminates competition for the sun, and provides good air circulation, which helps to reduce insect pests and diseases.

Fertilizing: A couple of weeks after planting, fertilize your fruit trees using Tree Tone*. Lightly scratch the granular fertilizer into the soil, in a two- foot radius around the trunk. Avoid getting the fertilizer directly against the trunk.

Care and Maintenance:

Fruit bearing trees are susceptible to a variety of pests and diseases. The following suggestions can help you manage your fruit plantings with fewer pest/disease issues.

• Inspect your fruit trees (weekly). 

• Prune out dead twigs and branches during the dormant season. 

• Rake up and destroy leaves/diseased fruit after harvest. 

• Use dormant oil spray* (also known as Horticultural Oil/Four Season Oil) in late winter/early spring (late Feb/early March), when temperatures are above 50° F. Dormant oil controls the egg and larval stages of many insects. It will not work on adult insects. 

• To avoid fungal diseases, spray your fruit trees with an all purpose fungicide such as Fungonil* at bud break. Bud break is when you see up to 1/2 inch of green on the buds. Continue to spray on a monthly basis during the grow- ing season. Stop fungicide sprays 3 weeks prior to harvesting.

Pruning:

• Annual pruning keeps trees productive. Apple, pear and cherry trees are best trained to a central leader. Peach, plum and apricot trees should be trained into a vase shape (no central leader).

• If your fruit tree sets fruit the first year, pick off the immature fruit, allowing the energy to go into the root and vegetative growth.

• Apples and Pears: prune when they are dormant.

• Cherries: prune when the weather is hot (to avoid bacterial diseases that are present in cool dry weather)

• Peaches and Apricots: prune in early spring, right after the last frost

• Plums: Plums are aggressive growers, so prune both in winter while they are dormant and also in summer to help contain their vigorous growth.

• For additional information about pruning, go to www.hollybrookorchards.com

Vole and Deer Protection:

• Protect your tree trunks from damage by wrap- ping them with trunk protectors.* Make sure the trunk protector is adequately perforated for air circulation and does not directly touch the bark.

• Keep deer from eating the tender branches of newly planted fruit trees by using Liquid Fence.*

Harvesting: 

• Allow fruit to ripen on the tree if you wish to attain the fullest flavor. 

• If you are planning to store your apples or pears, harvest before they are fully ripe. 

• Only store fruit that is in excellent condition, never any diseased or damaged fruit.