Winterizing Trees & Shrubs

Most shrubs and trees require no special preparation for winter, aside from making sure they are watered and old flower heads are removed.

Trees with smooth bark will benefit from tree wrap. Starting at the base of the tree, wrap the trunk to the lowest branch, overlapping each layer by 1/3. Secure at the top with duct tape or twine. Remove the tree wrap by the end of April.

Broadleaf evergreens, such as Holly and Rhododendron, can be sprayed with Wilt Pruf to prevent dissecation. Apply late in the season while temperatures are still above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. You can reapply mid-winter if there is a brief warm spell. Wilt Pruf can also by sprayed on any plant, with or without leaves, that is in a very windy location. Use with caution on plants with very fine needles (Hemlock, Arborvitae, Juniper); follow the product’s instructions on the label.

Plants sensitive to wind or sunburn can also be wrapped with burlap. Wrap in late fall and secure with twine or staples. Burlap can also be used to protect plants from deer and rabbits.

A-frame shrub protectors can be placed over plants that are under the drip line of your roof to protect them from snow or ice damage. They will also provide some protection from wind and sun.

Spray-on deer and rabbit repellants can be applied mid- to late fall. Follow the product’s instructions on the label for effective coverage.

A small group of shrubs require special winter care: Buddleia (Butterfly Bush), Caryopteris, Vitex (Chaste Tree), Scotch Broom, Big Leaf Hydrangeas (pink or blue flowering varieties). After the leaves have fallen from these plants, apply 12–18” at this time. Caryopteris, Scotch Broom and Hydrangeas can be cut back to green growth in the spring. The mulch should be removed in spring as the temperature warms.

The following plants are slow to start growing in the spring, so a little patience is required: Butterfly Bush, Caryopteris, Chaste Tree, Ornamental Grasses, Hardy Hibiscus.

Planting Trees & Shrubs

Choose the right spot. Does the plant need sun? Shade? Wind protection?

1. Dig the right hole! Dig the hole up to 50% wider than the root ball width and only the depth of the root ball. When the plant is in the hole the top of the ball or root system should be slightly above ground level.

2. Base. The base or bottom of the hole should be undisturbed soil to support the root ball and reduce settling.

3. Burlap covered root balls should not be disturbed. Put ball in prepared hole. Remove twine from top of ball, pull burlap away from top. Leave the wire basket in place so root ball will not be injured. Bend down the edges of the basket below soil line.

4. For container-grown plants, remove the pot and slice the roots 1/2 inch deep, several times around from top to bottom of root system.

5. Backfill. Using a mixture of the topsoil from the hole, add 25% of a soil amendment such as organic compost. Shovel the mixture around the roots. Do not heap soil around the trunk of the plants. Tamp lightly to remove air pockets. Make a shallow rim around the root ball to prevent water runoff.

6. Water thoroughly. Use a how and turn water pressure down low and allow the water to slowly run through the soil of the new planting, deep into the root system. Mix root stimulator, such as Starter Plus, in a watering can and apply around root zone.

Regular watering is essential to the survival of the plant. New plantings need to receive a thorough watering several times a week, soaking the entire root system. This should occur for four to six weeks, then weekly thereafter. However, be careful not to overwater the plant. Check the soil before and after watering.

7. Apply mulch at a depth of two to three inches around the base of the plant. Keep mulch away from the trunk.

8. There is no need to fertilize until the follow- ing spring. Use a slow-release fertilizer such as Osmocote, Tree-Tone or Jobes spikes. Evergreens prefer an acid plant food such as Holly-tone or Miracid.

Special planting instructions for Rhododendrons and Yews: Plant them high! Rhododendrons and yews do not tolerate wet soil and should be planted only in well-drained soil. to keep the roots drier, they should be planted with up to 1/4 of the root ball depth above the existing soil level. If wrapped in burlap, carefully cut away as much of the burlap as possible, once placed in the hole.

FAQs

What is the drip line?

The drip line is where the water drips from the outermost edge of the plant’s canopy.

My tree is not producing leaves. Is it dead?

Trees and shrubs have different dormant periods and different growth periods. Viability is determined by the presence or absence of green tissue under the bark.

How can I tell if I am watering my tree too much or too little? Slow drip watering is best for newly planted materials. Turn hose on with 1/4” stream of water running at the base of the plant. water trees for 1/2 hour and shrubs for 15 minutes. Water 1–3 times per week, as needed (with consideration to natural rainfall). Use a moisture meter to determine how moist the soil is prior to watering.

What is the scratch test?

Take a sharp object and scratch a small area of surface bark off to determine if there is healthy tissue (usually green) beneath the bark.