Planting Hardy Bulbs in Containers for Indoor Blooms

Choose a pot of the desired size for planting your bulbs. Although most sizes will work, a 6– to 8–inch pot will give your bulbs enough growing room. If the pot has no drainage hole, place a one-inch drainage layer in the bottom of the pot. Use gravel, stones or perlite. Add sufficient potting mix so the tips of the bulbs will be even with the top of the pot. Arrange the bulbs on top with the pointed ends facing up.

Cover the bulbs with more potting mix to with- in 1/4” of the pot lip. The tips of the bulbs should be visible. Water the bulbs and move the container to a cool area such as a shed or unheated garage, or the refrigerator. The bulbs require 13 weeks at 35–48 degrees Fahrenheit. Water as needed. In a few months, you’ll begin to see signs of growth. At this point, bring the container indoors and water regularly. Place in bright light until flowers show color (3–4 weeks). Once color is visible, move to bright indirect light. Soon you’ll be rewarded with beautiful blooms.

If you’re preparing a container of flowering bulbs to place on your deck or patio, keep the container in a garage or a basement where the temperature stays around 35–40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cold frame can also be used. If kept outside, the bulbs will be subjected to a damaging freeze/thaw cycle. In March you can safely place your container of bulbs in their outdoor location and enjoy the emerging spring color.

Planting Trees & Shrubs

Choose the right spot. Does the plant need sun? Shade? Wind protection?

1. Dig the right hole! Dig the hole up to 50% wider than the root ball width and only the depth of the root ball. When the plant is in the hole the top of the ball or root system should be slightly above ground level.

2. Base. The base or bottom of the hole should be undisturbed soil to support the root ball and reduce settling.

3. Burlap covered root balls should not be disturbed. Put ball in prepared hole. Remove twine from top of ball, pull burlap away from top. Leave the wire basket in place so root ball will not be injured. Bend down the edges of the basket below soil line.

4. For container-grown plants, remove the pot and slice the roots 1/2 inch deep, several times around from top to bottom of root system.

5. Backfill. Using a mixture of the topsoil from the hole, add 25% of a soil amendment such as organic compost. Shovel the mixture around the roots. Do not heap soil around the trunk of the plants. Tamp lightly to remove air pockets. Make a shallow rim around the root ball to prevent water runoff.

6. Water thoroughly. Use a how and turn water pressure down low and allow the water to slowly run through the soil of the new planting, deep into the root system. Mix root stimulator, such as Starter Plus, in a watering can and apply around root zone.

Regular watering is essential to the survival of the plant. New plantings need to receive a thorough watering several times a week, soaking the entire root system. This should occur for four to six weeks, then weekly thereafter. However, be careful not to overwater the plant. Check the soil before and after watering.

7. Apply mulch at a depth of two to three inches around the base of the plant. Keep mulch away from the trunk.

8. There is no need to fertilize until the follow- ing spring. Use a slow-release fertilizer such as Osmocote, Tree-Tone or Jobes spikes. Evergreens prefer an acid plant food such as Holly-tone or Miracid.

Special planting instructions for Rhododendrons and Yews: Plant them high! Rhododendrons and yews do not tolerate wet soil and should be planted only in well-drained soil. to keep the roots drier, they should be planted with up to 1/4 of the root ball depth above the existing soil level. If wrapped in burlap, carefully cut away as much of the burlap as possible, once placed in the hole.

FAQs

What is the drip line?

The drip line is where the water drips from the outermost edge of the plant’s canopy.

My tree is not producing leaves. Is it dead?

Trees and shrubs have different dormant periods and different growth periods. Viability is determined by the presence or absence of green tissue under the bark.

How can I tell if I am watering my tree too much or too little? Slow drip watering is best for newly planted materials. Turn hose on with 1/4” stream of water running at the base of the plant. water trees for 1/2 hour and shrubs for 15 minutes. Water 1–3 times per week, as needed (with consideration to natural rainfall). Use a moisture meter to determine how moist the soil is prior to watering.

What is the scratch test?

Take a sharp object and scratch a small area of surface bark off to determine if there is healthy tissue (usually green) beneath the bark.

Explore the Benefits of Raised Beds

• Fewer weeds and easier weed control

• Better water retention

• Better drainage than New York’s hardpan

• Greater growing depth for plants

• Warmer soil earlier in the season, and warmer soil for a longer season

• Relatively neutral and sterile soil

• Less soil erosion

• Offers a non-compacted soil (not walked on!)

• Reduces the need to use poor native soil

• Offers a chance to go all the way around the bed, for less wear and tear on the body

• Can produce 1.4–2 times more vegetables per square foot

• Provides a gardening opportunity for the handicapped or similarly disabled

• Can be used for any plants, including ornamentals, vegetables and fruits

Optimal widths are 3–4 feet, with lengths up to 20 feet.
Wood, rock, or concrete blocks can be used.
Optimal height is 8–24 inches.
A foundation of rubble can be advantageous to aid in drainage.
Soil should be enriched with fair amounts of com- post. 

Space plants in geometric patterns to decrease the number of weeds that can grow.
Companion planting is encouraged!

The New York Botanical Garden: June Gardening Tips

Chores and Maintenance

- Continue to cultivate planting beds to remove weeds

- Continue to dig and divide early-blooming perennials after flowering

- Water as necessary

- Continue to mulch planting beds

- Set supports for floppy plants, vines, and vegetables

- Deadhead rhododendrons, lilacs, and perennials after flowering

- Add to, aerate, and moisten compost pile to speed decomposition

- Continue to check for pests and other problems, and treat as necessary

- Mow lawns regularly to keep grass at 2 to 2 1/2" height

- Leave grass clippings on lawn to improve availability of nitrogen

- Water lawns if there is less than 1" of rain per week

- Harvest cool-weather lettuce, radishes, and scallions

- Begin to spray roses every week with baking soda solution* to protect against black spot disease

- Continue application of deer repellents

* Cornell University formula consists of: 3 tsp. baking soda, 2 1/2tbs. summer-weight horticultural oil, mixed with 1 gallon of water.

Planting

- Complete moving self-sown annuals and perennials to desired location

- Sow seeds of fast-growing annuals like marigolds, zinnias, and cosmos directly in the garden

- Sow seeds of heat-tolerant vegetables

- Continue to plant and transplant perennials, weather and soil conditions permitting

- Finish planting summer annuals

- Complete planting summer-flowering bulbs such as cannas, gladiolas, and dahlias

- Plant caladium and tuberous begonias in shady spots

Pruning/Fertilizing

- Continue to prune all plant material to remove any diseased, dead, weak, or crossing branches

- Complete pruning early spring-flowering shrubs

- Prune evergreens and evergreen hedges into early summer

- Continue deadheading roses

- Fertilize roses after peak bloom

- Complete fertilizing spring-flowering bulbs

- Fertilize annuals and container plants

- Fertilize vegetables

Source: http://www.nybg.org/gardens/home-gardening/tips/june.php